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I need some advice as to what repairs I need to do next...how to asses it.
I just can't seem to get this car running and yet it carried me home 1100 miles when I bought it.
I can't imagine that that much was wrong ?
When I got home I started getting sqealing belts.
Gave up trying to get them stopped on my own.
Took the car into a reputable place and they replaced my Harmonic Balancer and Front Cam Seals. 500.00+
I got a long list of things that needed doing from them.
On the list are almost all the bushings and the A/c replaced, they said it was rattling badly.
I drove maybe 2 miles when the a/c belt broke in two. This belt was fairly new and not worn.
I spent about 7 or 8 hours learning how and got the new replacement belt on.
I started the car and immediately loud screaming noise, smoke, smell of burning rubber and of course I turned off the car.
So, when I changed that belt did I lock something cause it's not turning.
Is the compressor pulley supposed to turn when the car is turned off? How do I check this out?
I need some help because my p.steering doesn't seem to work without this a/c belt turning properly. I think the a/c pulley drives the P/S pulley, right?
Can someone tell me where to look, test etc... next and how to address it.
Should I give up, pay for the tow and have someone else do this?
Of course, Like most of us I don't want to let go of any more money but...
I bought this car in Aug and haven't gotten to drive it yet.
--
87 245 -178K
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posted by
someone claiming to be Justin Case Incorporated
on
Tue Nov 2 07:04 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Hello again I should be a little bit more specific about the belt situation
The belt I removed from the altornator is the outer belt (there should be 2 )
The belt I purchased from AUTO-ZONE auto part stores is # 15415 .
I am assuming they carry the same brand in all Auto zone stores.
This belt I ran direct from the now vacant pully groove(Cranck shaft)to
the power steering pump pully.
The only draw back I have seen is that the (timing indicator) above cranck shaft
pully gets a little scraped down (nothing to worry about) it is plastic
and NO harm is done
I have driven my 87' 240 this way for a week ( about 450 miles)it is great.
Iam very proud of you for not giving up.
P.S. The belt was only $3.99 + tax.
A garage quoted me $200. to put a bearing in the a/c compressor to fix problem.
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Put the belt on this morning. The engine sounds terrific.
Now if I can only find the squeal from the suspension.
But that's another story.
Thanks so much for the help.
I think you saved my bacon and my checkbook for the winter.
--
87 245 -178K
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It has taken me a week after work with other family obligations to get this belt off.
So, I did yesterday and the car is running good. Apparently I didn't ruin anything...maybe even made it better with my other efforts.
I'm headed out to Autozone now. Belt and new tensioner screw.
It's Texas in Nov so I've got till maybe late March to figure out the a/c solution.
Thanks so much for the encouragement. If I ever get past this issue, I've got more questions but
sufficient to the day is the evil therein.
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87 245 -178K
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Hello Girlwagon; FCP Groton.com has a separate listing for a power steering belt ( 10 X 938) for 240 models without AC. I would assume that this would/could run the pump directly off of the harmonic balancer, without a compressor being involved. This would buy time and/or save some money until ( next summer?) a compressor could be obtained and re-charged. They ( Groton) could be contacted
to confirm this, or maybe some of the more knowledgeable Brickboarders would know if this would work.
--
'94 940 150k, '86 240 170k, '72 142 KIA, '70 144 KIA, '69 144 RIP
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You can rig up a belt to drive the ps, alternator, and water pump, skipping the A/C altogether. The belt size can be found in the archives. NOTE: The Pre 1985 kit will not work. The belt can be picked up at Napa and simple slipped over the fan and then tensioned with the power steering tensioner.
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Just to restate what Art said, you can drive your Brick with the A/C belt removed. There is, as a result, no P/S but it can still be driven with somewhat heavy steering. Your A/C compressor has seized or A/C clutch bearings have gone bad. Try turning the A/C off, does the sqealing stop? Another quick check, with the compressor belt removed (engine off of course), the pulley on the front of the compressor should turn freely. If not the A/C clutch is bad and it may be all that needs replacing. Using a 20 dollar salvage yard compressor will restore the power steering at a small cost and it may well provide a working compressor to restore the A/C. Removing/replacing the compressor is a bit of a task on the 200's , so you may want to drive with no P/S for a bit while you consider your repair options. Once again you can drive with the A/C belt removed and no power steering. It won't hurt anything but it may give you a bit of an upper body work out.
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$500, ouch! That is about an hours worth of work and maybe $100 parts. Don't go for that kind of thing again! Definitely a used ($25), even new ($250) compressor.
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It is fateful you ask "where to turn".
When this happened to my daughter, the smoke and squealing hit a crescendo right in front of a Volvo dealership, so that's where she turned.
She explained to the service writer how her dad had just done a conversion of the AC (to R134a), so after they took a look wrote up a $1700 estimate.
I met her there, at the dealership, the next day as she turned back her rental car, I cut the belt and swapped cars with her. It is not really that difficult to drive without power assist, when you know it is out, but her arms are tiny compared to mine, and I needed to have her car anyway to get the compressor changed.
Well, a junkyard compressor was only $20 or $30, and for now all it is doing is providing that free-wheeling double pulley to run the power steering-- the R134a adventure awaits me next spring.
Funny thing, before Volvos entered her life, she thought nothing of dumping $2K into an old Taurus A/C. Well, maybe not nothing, but a lot less than I would think about doing that for sweat free commuting.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
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Sounds like the A/C compressor is frozen, doubt you did anything to cause it. Yep, belt from compressor drives P/S. Steering will be a bit stiff when trying to park, under speed you'll hardly notice that there is no P/S. So, you can drive it.. Check ebay, or local bone (salvage/junk ) yard for the compressor.
If belts, particularly the ones on the alternator, are lose they will let you know by protesting in an awful squeel. Too tight and they can break , but worse, cause excessive wear on the componet that they are attached to.
If you don't have one, get a good repair manual (Bently, Haynes, Chilton...) and or start collecting the Volvo "green" manuals that show up on ebay.
How many miles ? I'd tackle the critical repairs first. Use the board for help as you go.
Get the board posted on your progress.
--
84, 242GLTi, 167K, 4+OD, in rehab; 89, 245 DL, 270K, M 47, daily driver; 93, 245, auto, 167K ; and other toys.
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geat idea.
I may try the bigger belt fix to run everything but the a/c
I did find a pick n pull with a compressor for $25 but I have to pull it.
So I thought I would try pulling my own first so I would know what's involved.
The Bently was not helpful here and gave lots of warnings about refrigerant lines staying connected. Isn't that part of the condensor not the compressor.
Since it took me 7 hours to put this **** belt on. I started to take it off and it looks like it will take just as long.
This thing just doesn't want to move enough to get the thing off.
WHEN (not if) I get it off where do I go from here, taking the compressor off?
--
87 245 -178K
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This is a wild shot, but, if it's taking that long to change your drive belts: somewhere along the line someone may have put too many shims on the crankshaft pully ( the one at the lowest part of the engine that drives the belts). Normally all one needs to do is loosen the tension bolts....(many turns, to have an effect) on the compressor,and power steering units, or alternator.
Your right about Bently manual. Don't throw it out. Over the years I've picked several, including Chilton (most think Chilton's useless). Seems each leaves a bit to be desired....don't take you far enough, or give only a brief description on how to. I find a cross reference generally will give me a better idea as to what is what. Seems where one leaves off the others pick up. Start collecting the various Volvo Green manuals, ebay (under manuals) is a great source. I've picked up a few, and find they fill in the balnks as to "how to".
If you have the Haynes Volvo 240 Series 74-90, check out page 211 as to belts and 212 as to shims. Neither give a good A/C breakdown....due to lose of refrigerant (?). The A/C compressor does have refigerant hoses connected to it, so, be careful.
Hope this helps. Keep everyone posted as to your progress, or non progress.
--
84, 242GLTi, 167K, 4+OD, in rehab; 89, 245 DL, 270K, M 47, daily driver; 93, 245, auto, 167K ; and other toys.
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So I should take the belt off? and try to drive it?
--
87 245 -178K
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posted by
someone claiming to be Justin Case Incrporated
on
Tue Nov 2 06:13 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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I have just done this belt modification Take ( 1 ) belt off the altornator
Get one belt to run from crank shaft pully to power steering pump
Makes a world of differance in steering
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If belt is still on, try turning the A/C compressor by hand, using the belt (engine off of course). If compressor is froze, then remove the belt. There is an adjustment bolt which sits horizontal on the top of the compressor. Turn it counterclock wise and the belt should come off .
Usually the clutch in the A/C compressor siezes. I'd have a qualified AC shop do the work only because of having to disconnect the refrigerant lines. Good time to upgrade system to R134a. There are upgrade kits available.
At slow speeds (like parking) the steering is a bit heavy, at regular speeds you'll hardly notice. There are a few "Brickers" who have disconnected the P/S so as to have the more precise feel of a manual steering.
Let us know how it goes.
--
84, 242GLTi, 167K, 4+OD, in rehab; 89, 245 DL, 270K, M 47, daily driver; 93, 245, auto, 167K ; and other toys.
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I don't suggest leaving the power steering disconnected for any real length of time. There's quite a difference between a car with a manual steering rack, and a car with a non-working power steering rack.
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as "Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!"
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