Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Clutch cylinders 120-130

posted by  SebCH on  Fri Oct 29 06:38 CST 2004
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last visit: Fri Feb 19 06:25 CST 2010
[RELATED]

Hi all,
One more about clutch cylinder diameters!!
Sinc I restored my Amazon, I've always had scratching gear changes between 3rd and 4th. 1st and 2nd are perfect!
Several options here: 1. shot synchros - I don't want to believe that at this point...
2. - badly adjusted mechanism - I don't thinks that's the problem: I tried all the possibilities. At one point, I even had it adjusted so that the pedal would not go down to the firewall but the clutch master-cylinder wouldn't go any further, i.e. all the fluid that was able to be pumped into the circuit was indeed pumped, and still the gears wouldn't change quietly.
3. - my guess is that I have a setup with a slave cylinder that is too large (later models?) and so there is not enough fluid to pump it to its maximal lenght. It might be coupled with a release bearing that might not be the proper model. As I've put the thing together with parts of early B18's, late B18's, 122S B20's and 140 B20's, I might have a bad combination.
What do you think of that? Are there differences between clutch mechanisms, clutch release bearings accirding to the production years?
Thanks for you input! Bye, Séb








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    Clutch cylinders 120-130

    posted by  chakra on  Fri Oct 29 17:19 CST 2004
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    last visit: Sat Feb 7 10:17 CST 2009
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    Seems to me that if some shifts always work fine and other shifts always cause problems the difficulty has to be in the gear box. They are pretty straightforward to remove and take apart. Not something you would choose to do for kicks, but a pretty easy one-day job to remove and disassemble, then a second day on putting things back together with nice new bits.








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    Clutch cylinders 120-130

    uid 28180's pic
    posted by  ClassicVolvoShop on  Fri Oct 29 06:47 CST 2004
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    Mastercylinder was the same all years..
    Slavecylinder changed:

    until '66 - bore 3/4"
    after - bore 13/16"..

    That might be your problem - but I don't really belive this should course the problem..

    I'm sorry to say, but the problem I think is in your gearbox..

    Ohh.. Have you changed the clutch? If so (or if another did it) does the the "release-bearing" fit the clutch itself??

    The different clutches have their own "release-bearing"

    Hopefully my english is understandable..

    /Soren







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      Clutch cylinders 120-130

      posted by  jj2126 on  Sat Oct 30 02:19 CST 2004
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      last visit: Fri Oct 24 05:20 CST 2014
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      I would check the arm between the throwout bearing and the slave cylinder . I found that one in a 120 had been welded. Leading me to believe that it might be bending.

      Joel the locksmith








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        Clutch cylinders 120-130

        uid 28180's pic
        posted by  ClassicVolvoShop on  Sat Oct 30 03:43 CST 2004
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        I know what you mean, but must say, that in all my years with 120/220's I have never seen a broken "release-arm".. But I don't say it isn't possible!

        Anyway, when the problem only occurs in 3rd and 4th gear, I pretty sure that the problem is not clutch - but gearbox..

        Normally if clutch is not releasing freely, it is almost impossible to get the car in gear at all - If you ever encounter a master/slavecylinder failure on the road, the best way to get the car back home (alone) is to turn off engine, start engine IN 1st gear - roll on and change gears by "feeling" the shifter up the gears - I hope I make some sence..
        It is fairly easy, done with awareness of course..

        If the clutch, either by release bearing, release-arm or any doesn't release proberly - it would normally show in all gears, not only in 3rd and 4th.

        In a wierd case, there could be a problem if the gearbox is "out-of-line" and the shifter is not allowed free mobility - but I still lean towards a bad synchro between 3rd and 4th..







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          Clutch cylinders 120-130

          posted by  SebCH on  Mon Nov 1 09:17 CST 2004
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          last visit: Fri Feb 19 06:25 CST 2010
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          Thanks for the inputs, folks!
          I forgot to add that when I shift into reverse (car stopped), it also goes "krrrr"! for a while unless I "pump" on the clutch one time (1/3 of the total move)
          On another car (citroen) I had the case that when the clutch could not be fully depressed (mismatched clutch mechanism and bearing), reverse and 1st gear would scratch, but not 3rd and 4th, th'at's why I thought maybe the Amazon g'box might happily shift 1st and 2nd but not 3rd and 4th with this clutch setup?
          I'll try to post pics of the bearing I will install and my several clutch mechanism options so you can tell me if it can be wrong!
          Thanks and stay tuned!
          Séb








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            Clutch cylinders 120-130

            posted by  someone claiming to be mjamgb on  Wed Nov 10 09:41 CST 2004 [RELATED]

            It would be very unusual for the burr to be on 3 and 4 but not on 1 when shifting from a dead stop. I suspect syncro cones on 3/4 cluster (beware the ding-dong keeper ring... get the proper tool). Not really difficult to replace and the cones are available, unlike the lay shaft parts!

            Reverse is straight cut (no syncro) so a little buzz is not unusual. I like to hit second before finding reverse to line up the gears and stop the spinning of the lay shaft.

            Mike!







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