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I'm checking for a no spark condition on my '86 240 wagon. According to the Haynes manual, I should be able to detect battery voltage at location "A" on the distributor wiring plug with the key switched on. If I don't have voltage here, what does it mean? I assumed that it meant that the hall effect sensor was bad.
Thanks,
Dave
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location a doesn't ring a bell. the blue wire goes from the ignition sw to the power side of the coil, terminal 1. ignition on-12v-use a meter! the other is terminal 15 which is the red/white wire and that pulses the coil to fire it.
don't assume no coil pulse, needs a pickup.
if the injectors are pulsing while the coil has no spark, there's a problem elsewhere besides the pickup.
if there is no injector pulse nor spark at the coil, then, unless the harness is bad, then the pickup is bad. good luck, chuck.
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Hi Chuck,
The injectors are pulsing when I have someone crank the engine over. I checked this out last weekend. So, I guess I'm back to the wiring harness. The only bad wires that I've found are: temp sender, oil pressure sender, exciter wire to alternator. Do you know the colors of these wires so that I can locate them further up in the harness to solder in replacements? I know that the exciter wire is red and I've already repaired that one. Other than these wires, my harness looks pretty good. The wires going to the ignition module seem fine. I've also tried a known good ignition module and still can't get spark to the plugs.
Thanks,
Dave
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if the harness is shot, any further movement means more problems. maybe the injectors WON'T pulse after you fix the ignition stuff. i'd pop for a harness before going any further. there may be power or ground someplace it doesn't belong. you'd be suprised at how much damage is in there that you can't see. there are 20 some wires to the fuel ecu that run with the rest of the engine harness. imagine the possibilities. any flaky harness makes me real suspicious. in the old days, we used to fix them as they rotted. learned after a while that only made things worse. as far as colors go, you're gonna need a diagram, too many to remember. good luck, chuck.
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Hi Chuck,
Good point. The guy that sells post '87 harnesses on Ebay seems to have fair prices. I'm guessing that it would be OK to use these since they were the updated versions. New ones are $350 if I'm not mistaken.
Cheers,
Dave
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i may have jumped the gun on the harness. after all, it's engine and fuel, not ignition. that's a separate harness. i hear flaky harness and my knee-jerk reaction is gotta replace it.
is there a pulse on the coil at 1? that comes from the ignition control unit. THOSE harnesses get brittle and wear through under the crank pulley. the ignition control unit needs sleeves on pins 3, 5 and 9 for a better connection. the connector itself can be suspect, also.
if there is a pulse and still no spark, then we're talking coil, cap, rotor and/or wires-all that's left. good luck, chuck.
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Hi Chuck,
I fixed the three bad wires that I found. There is a weak spark from the coil when I stick a screwdriver in the HT lead and hold it near a ground while someone cranks the engine over. Also, the spark occurs after I quit cranking the engine ( right after I let off of the key). My battery is getting weak from spinning the starter so much, so maybe that's why the spark is weak. It still urks me that those couple of red warning lights on the dash don't light up with the ignition on. The parking brake light comes on with the ignition on.
Cheers,
Dave
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if there is no spark while the car is cranking but after you let go of the key, try checking the blue wire, with a meter, while cranking. if it has less than 10.5v while cranking and 12v or better when you let go of the key, check the fuse box at 10 and 11. that's the power from the ign sw, into 11-blue/yellow wire out of 10-blue wire-as a jumper, not through the fuses, and then out to the coil 15 terminal. if while cranking you have 10.5v or less at the fuse box, then try another ignition switch. good luck, chuck.
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Right on Chuck, I bought a meter today and checked for 12 volts at the coil while cranking. With the key on, the meter read 12 or so volts but when I started cranking the engine it dropped to zero. Same with the wires inside of the car that you told me to check. Well, I replaced the ignition switch with one from my running '86 sedan and it started right up! Now all I need to do is order a new switch. Who would have the best price on it?
Thanks for all of your help with this.
Dave
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