YO!!

Two fuel pumps are listed for B-18 equipped 122s at my local parts house. One is up to 64 and one is 65 and up. I got a 64. Picture of the levers looks slightly different. What's the diff and can I adapt the later one to the early B-18? I have the old AC style with the built in sediment bowl.

Twombo,

Fuelpumps on ALL B18 and B20 engines:

'62-'64, AC the one with the glasbowl
'65, AC with metal-bowl
'66-'70, Pierburg

All three types where originaly mounted with the spacer-brick and there where/is no difference in lever.
There would be no adaption needed - the specifications are the same all the way thru the years. -And pumps can be switched over any way.

All this, from an original point of view! Aftermarket fuelpumps - I don't know!

But today Volvo sell a newer design of the Pierburg and I know of one Italien one too..(but anyone who knows Italien autoparts don't really wanna go there..)

Anyway - if what you have is an original pump - the spacer-brick MUST be mounted together with the pump!
(Only the AC pump (looks exactly the same as the one for the B18/B20's) for the B16 engine is different)

If your fuelpump is not working - but you have the original one, it is fairly easy to restore the pump with a "rebuild-set" - and rebuild-set's are available for all 3 original types..

I have noticed that a lot of brickboarders seem to have replaced the original fuelpump with electrical fuelpumps - which I dont really see the point in - other than you might have difficulties in getting the rebuild-set's or original pumps..
Anyway - without even having looked at costs and so - I would still guess that mounting a pump that gives too much fuel and trying too avoid this by inserting extra fuelreturn-lines or whatever - can't really be THAT more cheaper than to go for the original pump and benefitting the original looks..

Sorry if I sound tuff - not intented! :-)
/Soren

Mange tak, Soren!!

Your English is fine, I understand completely. I will check on the rebuild kit. I may take it apart and clean it. It may mave some debris blocking the check valves from the rusty fuel tank). I do have a filter between pump and tank though. It sometimes will not pull fuel and sends bubble back to the fuel tank.

The car is all original. I don't care for electric pumps myself. The original worked for 40 years... why change now?

Farvel sålænge

Twombo

Velbekomme! (you're welcome!)

Ahh!!... seeing those danish letters, Æ Å Ø really IS nice! :-)

Anyway - you might even have a slight wear in the membran (?) - and HEY! -the rebuild-set's comes with ALL parts!

Have fun! - take it apart - clean it up - change the parts that might be worn out - put it back on your car - and you know what? - It will run another 40 years - just because you showed it a little love...

:-)

/Søren

I don't know about the different types, but I do know that the pump I got from my parts guy years ago made too much pressure. the OEM pump makes a max of 3.5lb sq in, and the after market one i got needed a fuel regulator down the line to control it or fuel would push by the needles valve in the float bowl. PITA. BTW is the engine in you car original to the vehicle? Many have been switched around over the years, which of course changes things re which pump to use. 

I believe the lever is shorter on the early one. Won't work with the later one unless you use the thick phenolic spacer to keep the extra distance away from the block.
--
'89 245 Sportwagon, '04 V70 2.5T Sportwagon

Thanks Pete!

How thick is the later spacer, any idea? I got phenolic and a mill!!

Cheers!

The phenolic spacer are available at US$9 on IPD web catalog (a lot less work, and probably, less time).
Joaquin
Rojo 121 Amazon
Lima Peru