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I know, I know, I'm gonna get some "I coulda told ya that's" and "I told ya so's" but I needed an alternator and spent $73 instead of multiples of that for an alternator.
So Tuesday it went out in Denver, over an hour from home, but not completely out. It would bring the voltage up to 12.65 at speed, but that's not a healthy voltage. Also, when the key was off, the charging idiot light was on full bright. I think that means something shorted out in the alternator and was running full voltage back through the bulb when the key was off.
No idiot lights weren't on at all with the key on, unlike my original alternator which allowed them to burn ever-so-dimly whilst charging at 12.6 volts or so.
But Autozone gave me a lifetime warranty, and after pulling the first one it took less than 15 minutes to install the replacement. Just a little annoying.
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posted by
someone claiming to be MelM
on
Thu Oct 28 18:28 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Our responses are probably all colored by our experiences. When the alternator on my 1980 started charging intermittantly, I thought I had it tracked down to a bad brush lead, but it might have just broken when I pulled out the assembly and the spring was free to extend, pulling against the lead. In the process, I decided the lug on the end of the main cable needed to be replaced so I pulled it out of the harness and got a new end crimped on it. (BTW, also converted to the one-lead Bosch some time in the past.)
Ohboy, did that start a mess. The wiring harness started sending me signals that I overlooked because mixed in the middle I needed a new battery and the alternator came out two more times as the leads from the rotor to the sliprings failed one after the other. Faintly glowing idiot lights, not just the alternator light, and intermittant episodes of starter staying engaged or motor not running unless the starter stayed engaged or not being able to turn off the engine were all simptoms. At one point I thought replacing the ignition switch had cured the starter problem.
Finally it was so obvious I couldn't miss it. The rotted harness syndrom had hit. I don't know why my Volvo didn't go up in flames like others I've seen on there way to the wreckers. Never having seen it before, it was very disturbing.
If you still get electrical surprises after the latest alternator swap, look deeper.
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"when the key was off, the charging idiot light was on full bright. I think that means something shorted out in the alternator "
No. With the engine off, key in II position, alt light should be on. It shows that you have a continuous (charging) circuit. If the light were off then you know that there is a break in the circuit.
"No idiot lights weren't on at all with the key on, unlike my original alternator which allowed them to burn ever-so-dimly whilst charging at 12.6 volts or so."
When you start the car, the alt light should go out as the system is charging. If there is a dim glow then chances are the brushes are short resulting in poor contact and poor charging.
But, if you are only getting 12.6V, then there is a charging problem though it is not being indicated by the alt light.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans
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Right - when the key is off - the light should be out - methinks you have the alternator not wired up properly.
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>>Right - when the key is off - the light should be out - methinks you have the alternator not wired up properly.<<
I realize that the light should not be on with the key off. I believe there was a short in the alternator causing this. Turning the key off supplied a ground for the bulb which was being fed 12 volts from the short in the alternator that was running 12 volts straight from the battery to the exciter wire that comes from the idiot light, at least that's my theory.
It was wired fine. It worked for a month or so. And I wired the new one the same way, and it works fine.
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I must have been lucky. I bought my '86 sedan at 180k miles and at around 200K the OEM alternator died. I bought a reman at AutoZone and the only thing I had to do was replace the bushings last month. Tomorrow I will be rolling over 299K miles. My 300K badge is in my dresser drawer ready to go on the grille.
Yahoo............
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My experience is that the local auto electric shops do a better and cheaper job in rebuilds than the national chains.
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Hello,
You would have been better off spending 50 bucks buying a used one at a junk yard. I finally broke down last week and got rid of the UAP unit that was in my 245. It never gave consistent voltage, fluttered annoyingly at times and for the last month has had very weak loading capacity.
Replaced with an OE Bosch reman unit to the tune of $207 CAD after the core, and it comes with 5 years of over the counter exchange warranty. The new one holds 14 volts with all lights, stereo, wipers and blower motor on full.
--
Happy Bricking!!! - Richard - '87 245 DL , '82 242 GLT - Volvo's are alive and well in Brampton!!!
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Did anyone ever try to replace the carbon brushes.
That's usually what wears out on the alternator.
Sometimes it pays to have an Electric Motor Repair
Shop do it.
-Cool Volvo- 1982 240 4 Spd OD w/ 227K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 214K. Used to own 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245
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-Cool Volvo- 1982 240 4 Spd OD w/ 227K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 214K. Used to own 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245
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I tried replacing the brushes. They are part of the regulator assembly, but it didn't work since the commutator had such deep grooves from the old brushes that the new brushes didn't make adequate contact to charge effectivley.
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Nice looking car. Mine is an '82 Sedn, same color.
You got a bargain!
--
-Cool Volvo- 1982 240 4 Spd OD w/ 227K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 214K. Used to own 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245
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you got that right!
--
and the bricks keep on rolling....
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