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'90 240 stalling problems...again 200 1990

After 3 trips to the mechanic (2 trips to general practitioner, one to the Volvo dealership), I was told that my stalling problem was taken care of. What has been taken care of is this short list: plugs, wires, rotor, cap, both fuel pumps, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, vacuum leak seal, injector/throttle body clean, "carbon flush" and the usual run-around. While at the dealership, they found one of the injector grounds not even bolted on, so they put it on and said the problem was solved.

This was fine, until a short trip to the airport. First stop light I came to it hesitated for a second, then stalled out. Started again no problem, but did the same at the next light. It's due to go to dealership again tomorrow, though I am thinking I can kick this habit myself. I am thinking this could be the AMM, so I will test this tonight. Other than this, what else should I be on the look-out for?








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    '90 240 stalling problems...again 200 1990

    Some low/no cost options:

    1.Check the AMM plug connector for looseness. SHUT OFF engine before disconnecting or reconnecting. Be careful of the pins inside too. Throw in a dab of dielectric grease. Mine on my 90 came loose once and it took me awhile to find it as I was on the road...

    2.Wait a minute, one more thought. After it stalls try jiggling the wires directly behind the battery. Try it before and after it starts. If this has any effect then it is highly likely that you have a bad 25 amp fuel injection fuse and/or fuseholder. The fuseholder is usually black/orange and located about 6 inches behind the battery towards the driver. Blade style fuse inside. My 90 has it and I believe most, if not all, 90's have it but maybe not as it is the last year for these foolish things!

    BTDT with both of the above........

    --
    Jim 90 244DL 245K








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    '90 240 stalling problems...again 200 1990

    Has anyone looked at the crank position sensor yet? Its also known as the reference or rpm sensor. Its located at the top front of the transmission bellhousing where the housing meets the engine block. Open the hood, lean over the passenger side fender and shine a flashlight down the firewall to see it. The sheathing seems to crack on the older versions. The older version can be identified by a yellow stripe. Cracked sheathing doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad, but it surely doesn't help.








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      '90 240 stalling problems...again 200 1990

      This had been recommended in a prior posting, so I will check that out tonight. Is this something which is easily replaced? If I remember correctly, it is something which would be done from underneath the car.








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        '90 240 stalling problems...again 200 1990

        The RPM Sensor is replaced from beside the right fender. When you can see it—you can't touch it and vice versa. I did mine by braille, using a 1/4" ratchet w/10mmsocket (left-handed) in under 10 minutes. A good thing to rule out, IMO, if it's the original '90 vintage.

        Here is a picture of an RPM Sensor in place, and engine apparently moved forward. An older 700 series I think.

        P.S. "I am thinking this could be the AMM, so I will test this tonight.'
        IMO (and that of many more expert than I am) you will be wasting your time. I think it was Art Benstein who said, "Nobody ever found a bad AMM with a meter." or words to that effect. Good enough for me.

        I do believe the experts might use a meter on an AMM as an aid to tweaking mixture adjustment, but not diagnostically. My 2˘ worth.
        --
        Bruce Young
        '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








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    '90 240 stalling problems...again 200 1990

    Given that everything else has been replaced I think you have a bad ECM. I had similar symptoms on my Dodge minivan with intermittent stalling, etc.

    Easiest thing to do is to swap it out with another one. You can pick up a used one on Ebay for $50.







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