This is a 4 cyl. right? With the top timing belt cover off, the mark on the cam gear lined up with the mark on the back of the top of the cover, the manual says the mark on the crankshaft pulley doesn't necessarily(?) line up with the 0 degree position on the timing mark on the lower cover. I believe it should be-at least in the vacinity. I should have checked mine when I put it back together, but was in a hurry and didn't. If indeed it doesn't, one must take off the crank pulley and the lower timing belt cover to inspect the location of the crank gear in relation to the mark on the block. It is at about the 11:30 position. The notch to line it up with is on the outside washer(shield) of the crank gear. These two marks must be in alignment for all the stars to be in their respective heavens.....Remember the crank turns twice for every one revolution of the cam gear.

This is a 4 cyl. right? With the top timing belt cover off, the mark on the cam gear lined up with the mark on the back of the top of the cover, the manual says the mark on the crankshaft pulley doesn't necessarily(?) line up with the 0 degree position on the timing mark on the lower cover. I believe it should be-at least in the vacinity. I should have checked mine when I put it back together, but was in a hurry and didn't. If indeed it doesn't, one must take off the crank pulley and the lower timing belt cover to inspect the location of the crank gear in relation to the mark on the block. It is at about the 11:30 position. The notch to line it up with is on the outside washer(shield) of the crank gear. These two marks must be in alignment for all the stars to be in their respective heavens.....Remember the crank turns twice for every one revolution of the cam gear.

Look in the FAQ section on transmissions. There are very clear instructions on how to flush it with only the purchase of five feet of 1/2" clear plastic hose and a case of ATF. It is very easy and takes less than an hour to do. I used about 10 quarts, but with the risk of coolant contamination, I would do an extra quart or two, and maybe come back and flush again after a tank of gas or so. Just a thought.

What type of transmission fluid are you using? It should only be expensive if you are using synthetic. I bought a case of 12 quarts and know I walked out of the auto parts store with change for a $20.00 bill. If you want to use synthetic, that's a great idea, but I would use the cheap stuff for the first flush and to make sure the transmission is still working before filling it with $50.00+ worth of fluid.

The one way check valve from napa is fine. Check out www.fcpgroton.com for pars purchases in the future. Good service, good prices and if something is wrong, they will make good on it.

Have read a bunch of complaints about "Scantech" parts on the bricboard, bushings in particular. My only Scantech experience is with flame trap kits and while they seem cheaply made, they worked fine.

Change the vacuum hoses, my 760 is running much better since I did a whosale replaement.

Good luck,

Dan