Thanks for all of your input. I like the repair page Dave. Hopefully we can find a long enough tube on a doner gauge since the oil temp gauge has a long copper wire. Looks like an interesting experiment. It doesn't mention anything about the nut that holds the bulb in the side of the oil pan. I also read never open the back of these gauges since it can break the tabs that hold them together.

I have a couple of sets of bad ones, I was looking around for a fix and found this.

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge.html

It seems to be a not too hard fix, haven't had time yet to take a shot at it.
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Dave Shannon
Spring Valley, California
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Thank You for the suggestion. Actually, the wires seem sufficient, its the bulb on the end that is loose on the oil temp sender. Their must be a way to repair it with solder or something. If anyome ever fixed their own please let me know. For now I'm going to keep searching for repiar info, $180.00 is out of my ballpark. mgc67@hotmail.com thank you!

The steel based capillary tubes on those gauges always get brittle and crack and 90% of the time it's the oil temp one that goes first because the tube is longer and probably more exposed to potential danger.

There's a place called MoMo or MoMar in New Mexico that repairs them. They charge about $185 USD and for that they will replace both capillary tubes with better more robust and flexible copper based lines and calibrate both gauges. They won't repair just one gauge because the chances are the old one will crack when being packed for shipping or when being installed.

Roj

'67 1800S

The oil temp gauge starts at 140 F., so you should definitely see a reading if you put the sender in near-boiling water. Should work exactly the same as the water temp gauge.

Not sure what you mean by kinda loose, but if you can move the bulb on the sender relative to the tube, it's toasted. The tube should be sealed and filled with ether. I think someone suggested a place that can repair them a while back, but unfortunately, I didn't save that info.