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but i didn't really have any lower back pain, but it still bothered me the the lumbar support thingy in the driver seat didn't work. so i replaced it today, and i didn't think it would be THAT different. it must have looked like i was sitting in a 5 gal bucket, because feel i have "proper" driving posture.
rebuild kit + 45 min + 3 zip ties = happy highway cruiser
R
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I did the lumbar support repair on my 740 with the ipd kit. When my 940 lumbar broke I was ready to jump in and repair. I took seat back cover off and found no broken parts. Somebody had backed the adjusting knob off the threads. I pushed hard and threaded it back on. No cost in parts. So I always push and try to rethread first.
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posted by
someone claiming to be jpezie
on
Fri Oct 22 00:22 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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I include a German Volvo site, which has selfexplaining pictures.
The text however is in the German language.
May be it's helpfull to you.
http://www.volvo760.de/tipps/lordose/lordosenstuetzenreparatur.pdf
kind regards,
John
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Dear R,
Good p.m. and hope this finds you well. Great going!!!
Could you write-up exactly what you did, and how you did it, for inclusion in the next edition of the FAQs.
I'm sure many would like to restore the lumbar support to operation, and would benefit from your work.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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Spook,
there is already info about this in the FAQ under interior seats etc.
The link seems to be broken at the moment but no doubt Jarrod will fix it given time.
Colin.
1990 740SE B200E/M47, remote C/Locking.
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Where'd you get a rebuild kit? Did you do it in the car? Paul
--
'96 965, longtime 240 owner and 200K mile member
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i bought the rebuild kit from IPD. if memory serves me correctly, it was around $64.00 US.
with the rebuild kit ready to install, all you need is a pair of wire cutting
pliers, and a little torx set...i think it was a T25. 3 zip ties.
this is for a driver seat:
remove the lumbar adjuster knob by unscrewing it, and the plastic trim piece the presses up against the seat fabric-it should slide off. push the seat all the way forward on the rails, and recline it all the way back, as far as it goes...it will practically hit the rear seat. you have to dig around a little bit in the area where the seat cushion and the backrest meet, and what you are looking for are the three metal rings that are used to keep the extension of the backrest's front and rear covers together, thus preventing the entire backrest seat cover from slipping around and up. when you find these three rings, cut them with the wire cutters and try to remove their remains so as not to snag any other fabric. leave the front and rear flap of fabric free. bring the seat to its upright position and slide it so as to have space to work as you must sit on the rear seat to access the lumbar system. pull up the seat cover from the bottom up as if trying to take off the shirt of someone sitting in front of you. once you get about half of the rear of the backrest exposed, you can see the lumbar support system. there is an anchorage point on the right side (as if looking at the front seat from therear passenger seat) and one on the left side. the remove the anchorage point on the left side (this is the side that has the knob, and the side that actually moves to tension the lumbar strap), there are three screws that you must remove. they are kind of hidden under the hard styrofoam on the rear side of the backrest, and the soft sponge that is used on the front side of the backrest for comfort. if you gently pull apart these two pieces, you will see the three screws to remove. the IPD kit also provides new screws. once that little machanical piece is installed, place the strap in the little clips that are provided for it. the metal tabs on the strap should pop into place on the adjuster mechanism. the other side should be similar but the only annoying thing is the center console may get in the way. i only replaced that one side because the other side was fine.
now, pull the seat cover down and over the rear section and the front section so as to cover the seat again. be sure to massage the foam into its proper place so as not to have any funny looking bulges anywhere. once the cover is all the way down, and you have the flaps of fabric in the front and rear of the seat, recline the seat backward little by little, and stuff the rear flap of fabric throught the area where the seat cushion and the back rest meet, so as to have it protrude through that area once the seat is completely reclined. now is really the only tricky part...trying to put the end of the zip tie through the old metal ring hole on both pieces of fabric. patience with a little tugging to pull the fabric through a little more is the basic idea. once you have the zip tie through, you can cit the end with the snippers.
hope this helps. anyone feel free to ask questions.
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All that said, I just went out and bought a homedics chair back support for 13.
No installation but same relief.
Now if I could get the electric seat moving again, without ripping it apart.
'93 940T 191,000
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when i had my vw, it had power recaro seats. the driver seat motors started to work intermitantly, and i had to tap it with a little hammer to move it up and down. i took it to a vaccuum repair place and they fixed it for $50, but the motorwas not replaced.....mystery to me.
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Dear turbogal,
May this find you well. When powered driver's seat stop moving entirely, it is almost always due to a failure of a master relay, which is inside the seat computer, mounted on the underside of the driver's seat.
The relay is not, so far as I know, separately obtainable. It was made at the Portugal factory of Siemens (a German firm). Siemens sold its relay business to Tyco, a US firm. Tyco's engineers tellme they do not have the technical specs on this Siemens relay, and so cannot tell, if Tyco makes a substitute. I have asked Siemens for the technical data. They must have this data, as their lawyers will require them to keep data on all products, that they've ever made.
That said, you might be able to get a good, used seat computer at a salvage yard. It might also be a good idea to get the switch unit, as well. Sometimes, the seat switch gets dirty, and ceases to pass power to the seat computer.
Replacing the driver's seat computer requires removal of the seat. Before this is done, the negative battery cable terminal clamp must be removed from the battery and put into a plastic bag. This cuts power to the airbag sensor, which is mounted on the floor, below the driver's seat. Cutting power to this sensor guards against an inadvertent airbag deployment, should the sensor be banged or thumped during seat removal. An airbag deployment can be very dangerous - even lethal - at close quarters. A replacement airbag can cost US$1K.
For details on seat removal, see the FAQs, under features above. The driver's seat weighs about 60 lbs, and is unwieldy. The seat computer is "hooked" to underseat wires. It is not hard to remove.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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