i especially like the part about keeping impressionable children away. i would add un-impressionable children as well, i cant think of how many new words have been created while laying on ones back muttering, with dirt and sweat falling into your eyes. / lol
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mike, 1988 Volvo 240DL 114k , , previous 79 & 81 Volvo 244s

Is the bolt head turning but the bolt will not screw out or knock out? If so watch the spacer as you turn the bolt. If it turns too, then it is frozen to the bolt and preventing the bolt from being withdrawn.

A possible solution would be to try and grip the spacer with a vise grips while turning the bolt. You may be able to crack it loose.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

I am talking from the viewpoint of an 85 wagon here in the relatively rust free southwest, so I might be making a couple of assumptions........

Last Sunday I replaced the rear springs which involved loosening & removing the lower bolt of each shock before I could do anything with the spings. I jacked up the car from the side (had to do one at a time), removed the tire and then lowered the car so that the trailing arm rested enough on a brick so I could wiggle out the shock bolt. Here is where your problem might be - the weight of the axle could be putting enough tension on the bolt to make it hard to come out.

michael

Lube the s@#t out of it and bring your best hammer and a block of hardwood. Keep the nut on loosely in case you 'shroom the bolt over whilst pounding on it until the bolt starts to move. As always keep small impressionable kids away from the worksight.

I thought the same thing - two bolts, how hard can that be? Come to think of it, I think I said the same thing about the steering column u-joint too.

place a jack under the trailing arm to reduce the weight, that should do it.

If you don't have access to air tools, Harbor Freight sells an electric impact tool for around $35. It's good for loosening tight bolts when you don't have the cash for a compressor and such. It was a lifesaver when I had to remove the pinion nut on my differential that had been fused at the molecular level with the pinion shaft.

Just a guess but are you in a northern climate with snow and salt on the winter roads?

It is not unusual for the bolts to rust and sieze in either the lower eye of the shock or the spacer that keeps the bottom of the shock in the proper location.

First step is to spray some penetrating oil in there and let it soak in. If you have access to air tools, a couple of taps with an air hammer might break the bond.

You might also want to check that the axle hangs down just enough to take the load off the shock.

Skip
'93 850GLT
'83 242TI Flathod