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lighting problems part 2 120-130

posted by  twombo on  Wed Oct 20 05:19 CST 2004
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last visit: Wed Oct 8 17:27 CST 2014
[RELATED]

Ok, here the symptoms of my lighting problems.

With all switches off and key off no lights, no problem!

1. Turn the key on... light switch off... result: left and right blinkers are good except right front ...not working and no park light.

2. Turn light switch to park or headlights... result: Green signal indicator glows brightly.

3. Actuate left turn signal, result: dim flashing left turn bulb (Front and rear) and bright flashing running lights front and rear (left and right). Dash lights flash.

4. Actuate right turn signal... result: no flashing right turn bulb (Front or rear) bright flashing running lights front and rear (left and right). Dash lights flash. Heater control illumination flashes.

Conclusion: Seems like a cross connection between turn circuits and running lights for starters when park or headlight circuits energised. I'm thinking and poring over the diagram George sent me. I am redrawing it in Illustrator to extract the lighting circuit.

Things checked:

All rear light wiring and bulbs are good and properly installed. according to the schematic.

Questions:

1. Ever see any problems with turn signal switches?

2. Miswired light switch.... swapped 30, 58A, and 58b? Will check this tonite.

3. Where is junction unit 23... under dash somewere?

Additional:

1. Heater motor is not working. Red line is energized. Switch on first detent blue is dim black is bright, second detent is reversed.

Odds are a very simple wiring issue... someone along the line took something loose and didn't put it back right.

Suggestions?

Thanks








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    lighting problems part 2 120-130

    posted by  twombo on  Wed Oct 20 13:59 CST 2004
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    last visit: Wed Oct 8 17:27 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    Got it!!! Front park and signal lites improperly wired and missing/bad bulbs. Replaced bulbs and reconnected wires and lights be good.

    Thanks guys.

    George I owe you a color coded schematic when I get it redrawn.

    Phil, you want a copy for VClassics?








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      lighting problems part 2 120-130

      posted by  walrus3 on  Wed Oct 20 15:42 CST 2004
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      last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
      [RELATED]

      That would be great.
      Volvos are not good cars for amateur electricians to practice on because they
      are made screwy for a reason. If you don't figure out the reason, you will
      really screw things up!! And it makes recovery harder.








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    lighting problems part 2 120-130

    posted by  someone claiming to be shayne on  Wed Oct 20 05:36 CST 2004 [RELATED]

    Hi,
    It really sounds like one of the rear dual element bulbs is in backward. This doesn't always mean the dim will be swapped with the bright, but more likely the car is using the bulb to cross those wires at the stud(s) on the bottom of the bulb. Rear lights do not function properly if the backing plates are not grounded to the body.

    In the front you may have a ground wire that has fallen off and the signals/park lights are using each other as a ground.

    Dual element bulbs, installed incorrectly can cause problems right up and into the dash cluster.
    Best,
    shayne.








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      lighting problems part 2 120-130

      posted by  someone claiming to be shayne on  Wed Oct 20 05:51 CST 2004 [RELATED]

      And...

      White wires are running lights... all.
      Red is brake in the rear, but simply illum lights in the dash cluster.
      Black is ground in the front lights
      Gray is reverse in the rear
      Green is left turn signal and blue is right turn signal...all.

      Sometimes they'll make a break at the plastic connectors after all these years, good to check those as well. One at the left front corner of the engine bay. One right at the corner of the dash (left side of course). And a couple right at the rear lights, each side.
      My experience is the bad connection is always at one end or another, never in the middle. Do not be tempted to cut your black harness cover (unless it's melted:o).








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        lighting problems part 2 120-130

        posted by  twombo on  Wed Oct 20 06:35 CST 2004
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        last visit: Wed Oct 8 17:27 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        No melting is good! Agreed, cutting harness cover is very bad!!

        Problem momentarily appeared to partially clear itself this morning.. It has rained the last couple of days....possibly bad connections momentarily making contact due to moisture?

        1.5 brown wire in lt. front harness is hot to horns? With no connection to connector?

        American cars don't have headlight signalling relay and associated black to terminal 3, right?

        Only relay on left fender paneI have is for reverse lights.

        All front grounds are local to the radiator support. I gotta clean and treat them tonite.

        One thing about it, I will know the electrical system pretty well when I get done!!

        Thanks Shayne

        P.S.
        The Stainless moldings at the base of the widows are a PITA to take off!!!!








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          lighting problems part 2 120-130

          posted by  someone claiming to be shayne on  Wed Oct 20 11:46 CST 2004 [RELATED]



          1.5 brown wire in lt. front harness is hot to horns? With no connection to connector?

          Uh, the brown wire should run through the plastic connector, but if it doesn't that's okay as long as it does touch anything. 'Cause yeah, it's "hot" all the time.

          American cars don't have headlight signalling relay and associated black to terminal 3, right?

          American VOLVOS don't. I don't remember much about the detroit iron i've played with

          Only relay on left fender paneI have is for reverse lights.

          Yes. US market, like you said.

          All front grounds are local to the radiator support. I gotta clean and treat them tonite.

          Well, there is better hole down and to the side of rad supports but maybe the head of the screw has been stripped. Won't bother me if you drill:o)

          One thing about it, I will know the electrical system pretty well when I get done!!

          Abso!

          Shayne

          P.S.
          The Stainless moldings at the base of the widows are a PITA to take off!!!!

          Uh huh. Work from the inside. Pry up and out. You'll have to get the glass to lower far enough first. With the door panel off, gently bend the window stop in the bottom of the door so you can roll the glass down a bit further...not too far or you'll be teaching yourself how to put the cable back on the pulleys.






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