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I bought a set of spring compressors from a local autoparts store, K-D Tools brand. VERY nice quality. However changing my struts in my 87 was both about the hardest job I've done, and the most satisfying.
Hard in part I'm sure because the car had 215K on its original green Volvo struts, but most satisfying because now it handles really nicely with Bilstein Touring struts.
You'll want a pipe wrench for the upper strut tube nut. This holds in the strut cartridge. Also, my biggest trouble came from trying to get loose the nut at the top of the strut rod- that is the big one sticking up through the front fenders. I think it's 21mm or close enough to 7/8 to use a 7/8. What I would do, since you will not be re-using this nut, is to go to a shop that has air tools, and have them break the nut loose with an impact wrench. Hopefully it will turn. Then, tighten it back down by hand, and drive the car home for the work. Mine absolutely DID NOT want to come off. I ended up with everything apart except for that strut top with the cartridge, bearing plate, and bump stop still screwed together. Had to grind flat spots onto the strut rod so I could hold it with a wrench- it's so hard that a pipe wrench (A good big Ridgid one, mind you) would not bite into it so I could turn the nut.
I took one night per side and it was a bunch of work, but I'm happy with the results. I should note that I worked by myself, and it would have been much easier with some help.
Notes: you cannot get the spring compressors on up in the strut. Not enough room. Install them after the strut is pulled down and out.
- you will not want to disturb brake lines, so remove the retaining bolt at the frame rail, and pull the steel and rubber lines out to you, they'll bend and be just fine.
- the strut won't fit out of the fender arch unless the ball joint is loosened. Remove the inner single bolt and loosen the double bolts to allow more angle in the joint
- If you replace the upper bearing plate, try test fitting it into the strut tower from below- sometimes the studs need a little tweak. Be gentle with them.
- I don't think it's necessary to replace springs unless the car is uneven now. But do put a little never-seize on the spring ends, where they sit in the little pocket at each end.
Good luck! it's a big job, so take your time and be careful.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 234K, '82 245T/M46-182K, '89 244DL/AW70- 212K Not too distant past: 86 244DL 215K, 87 244DL 239K, 88 744GLE 233K, 88 244GL 147K, 91 244 183K
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