Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 2/2010 140-160 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Tach question 140-160 1973

On the Yellow Peril sometimes the tach reads 1000 rpm even when it is not
hooked up to the distributor/coil wire. I guess the two prongs on the sides
are for a power supply for it but I wonder if there is a cure for this
situation. I believe my 73 164 did the same thing. Looks like there must be
some high resistance short or something. Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Tach question 140-160 1973

    Most likely a dirty bearing. The return spring is very weak, especially near zero. Don't know how to (or if you can) fix it. A drop of thin oil might do it. Or perhaps the spring has come loose/slipped. As for me, a tach in my 144 would be a nice feature...








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Tach question 140-160 1973

      there's a dash mounted tach available for Volvos (you might find them in Australia). It lets you retain your ribbon type instrument panel instead of changing it to the Rallye type cluster, and at the same time have a tach. I saw that on a 72 142 I was "working on" a couple of weeks ago.
      --
      and the bricks keep on rolling....








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Tach question 140-160 1973

        Thanks for that. I saw a mounting hole on top of my dash through the metal cover, and the paint was somewhat scraped off. Perhaps there was one mounted, but is it any use on an automatic? I'll ask my father (who bought the car new) if he took it off.

        Actually I want to build my own digital dash. I love my ribbon speedo, but the idea of having all that space to go up to 200km/h but never using more than half of it, seems like a waste. I'm thinking a dash like KIT of Night Rider...

        Have fun...








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Tach question 140-160 1973

      Oh, silly me. That will teach me not to reply at the end of the day just before going home. Your tach does return to zero when off, so it is not sticking.

      Then it would be the internal circuitry. If you are electronically inclined then you would know what an electrolitic capacitor is. They are the first components to age, and replacing them will possibly fix the problem. Alternatively, the solder has cracked due to age and all the components are not connected any more.

      Cracked solder is very common with newer Volvos (a Bosch problem) due to the manunufacturing processes. On the 240 and 740 it shows up as a failed automatic overdrive relay or fuel pump relay.

      Have fun...








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Tach question 140-160 1973

    Yeah I have an autometer as well they, and I'm assuming that yours George have what they call an "Air Core Meter" and to quote their little manual, "With power off it is normal for the pointer to leave zero. When power is applied the pointer will move to the correct position." So I guess as long as you're getting a correct reading when the car is on there's nothing wrong.
    --








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Tach question 140-160 1973

    George, no idea if this applies to your tach or not -- and it probably doesn't -- but I have a modern Autometer tach in the 1800, and it reads about 1200 rpm when not hooked up, or when the ignition is off. The directions say this is normal.

    If you do hook it up, does it read lower that that at idle?








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Tach question 140-160 1973

      This is the OEM VDO tach and when everything is off, it reads zero.
      When the ignition is turned on (lately) it goes to 1000 rpm. At idle
      it reads maybe 12-1500 which is faster than it has been idling.

      Before, it did like it was supposed to, reading zero when the engine was
      stopped (with ignition turned on), pulsing a bit with cranking and then
      reading 800 at idle and higher during operation, apparently correct.

      Now, with ignition off, it reads zero. With ignition on, even with the
      wire to the distributor disconnected (or connected) it reads 1000.
      As I mentioned before the tach in my 73 164 did the same thing. Gotta be
      something in the power supply or internal circuitry if it does it with no
      signal input.








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Tach question 140-160 1973

        Have you tried replacing it with another tach and see if it does the same thing? Potential problem with the circuit board maybe? I know my gas gauge gives some crazy readings sometimes.
        --
        and the bricks keep on rolling....







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.