Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Tips on building a Stainless Steel Exhaust ?? 140-160

Two questions actually...

1. Recommend good source for replacemnt 140 exhaust pipe in carbon or st.st.?
Mandrel bent tube definitely preferred! My '70 145S has very funky exhaust. It's the next major item on restoration list.

2. Anybody share any tips on building a stainless steel exhaust? I've got a mostly st.st. exhaust (bought used - materials unknown) on my 260Z. The st.st. part is great - 2.5" dia. w/ mandrel bends and throaty muffler. But the carbon steel part downpipe assembly from the exhaust manifold has rusted through and is fumigating me pretty bad. Where can one find st.st. exhaust pipe materials? What grade st.st. is prefered? Tips on welding?

Thanks !
Later,
Al








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why build when you can buy? 140-160

VO40001
R Exhaust system, stainless 140 1967-73 set $510.00

that's from: http://www.swedishtreasures.com/1404.html

360 euros will get (probably from the same supplier) from scandcar (holland): http://volvoklassiekeronderdelen.nl/shopping/default.php?cPath=11_3111 .. or www.scandcar.com

I am sure many other suppliers have it as well.

Regards,

Hudson








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why build when you can buy? 140-160

Cool! But is that stock diameter piping? Mandrel bent or not? Performance mufflers? We don't know... But for someone looking for stock parts, that's cool. I never knew that was out there.
--
Kyle - '68 Volvo 142 w/71 b20b and m40...








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why build when you can buy? 140-160

I think it's 2.5" and would be shocked if it's not mandrel bent. (although I have no facts on this :)








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Tips on building a Stainless Steel Exhaust ?? 140-160

I have some experience with stainless steel exhaust systems, and I don't recommend it for this application. Not only is it expensive, but it is hard to weld (got to use TIG), and more prone to cracking than exhaust systems made of mild steel. Once a stainless steel exhaust system cracks (and they do), you will probably have to remove the exhaust system to repair it. Welding repairs involve very careful cleaning of the area, then filling the exhaust system with the inert gas used for the TIG shield, and then TIG welding.

Another respondant stated some wire feed welders can be used for welding SS. I have no experience at this, just the TIG.
--
john








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Tips on building a Stainless Steel Exhaust ?? 140-160

The route George states sounds like the best way to go and experience goes a long way as far as proven results go.
If you want to fabricate your own and use stainless steel here is what I did and had good results.
I put a Buick V6 in my PV444 and made my own exaust headers, both sides, for it since NO ONE makes them for this conversion.
After trying a wire feed welder and a torch with sad results (stainless will melt and sluff when hit with a torch and also get weird results with a wire feed unless a special wire is used) I finaly went to the local welding supply house for help.
Wound up with some silver brazing alloy rod: Made by Harris out of Cincinnati, OH. Part Number: 40235 and is called "Stay-Silv 5, 14 sticks , 1/8" dia. and 20" long cost $ 23.00 Using a small tim on my torch the pipes for the exaust manifold welded together beatufully. When done, I ground them down smooth, bead blasted them and then coated them with Eastwood exaust paint. It is a brush-on paint that will withstand 1500 degrees of heat. Since it is heat cured and I woulden't be driving the car till later, I cured them in my bar-b-q at high for about 20 minutes before I installed them. This allowed me to handle them without messing up the coating. It looks like a new casting and holds up for years, dosen't discolor and they looked like factory headers. You can also join stainless to regular steel if you have to.
If you are a novice at torch work have someone weld them for you, but it works good and looks great.
The way George suggests is using a pipe that has some engineering behind it as far as flow and back pressure which you won't get doing a home brew job. I had no choice but to fabricate mine but that gives you an alternative if you don't want to buy a ready made.
Good Luck,
Dennis








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Tips on building a Stainless Steel Exhaust ?? 140-160

I'd get a late model FI standard exhaust pipe. They are bigger and
last a long time unless you don't run them long enough to get hot,
and IF you don't get salt on them. That dual downpipe is a bear for
muffler shops to fabricate and while stainless lasts longer, it costs
so much more (and is harder to weld and fabricate) that I would not
even think about making one. If you can buy one already made in a
production operation that MIGHT be a good deal. But for example,
I have only replaced the front pipe in my 164 ONCE and I have had the
car for 33 years!
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US







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