Hello everyone, especially Bilstein HD installer and user,

Background: I suspected that Boge Turbo Gas Strut I installed three year ago were dead because I got a pronouce clunk going over large bumps like railroad tracks and the suspension was not as smooth over rough surface like it was when new. I started and finished my installation of new Bilstein HD Strut and shocks on my 1991 745 Turbo yesterday. (Got them for $359 from FCPGroton.) Please note I also installed new TRW ball joint, TRW outer tie rod, SKF strut bearings, and SKF strut mount.

Test drove the car this morning and I get lots of clunking. I mean I get clunking driving over small rocks let alone small bumps. Like I said before I only got clunking with the dead Boge Turbor Gas Struts over railroad tracks only. Never heard clunking from them over normal or rough road surface.

First question: I was told that Bilstein HD did not need strut boot or bumper stop like the Boge Turbo, so I did not install them. The Bilstein HD had its own strut boot but it did not have a strut bumper. Could this be the cause of the clunking?

Second question: I was also told that Bilstein HD did not need the locking nut, because the Bilstein HD size match up with the tube. (The locking nut prevent the Boge Turbo from moving in the tube.) Could this be the cause of the clunking?

Third question: The following is a list of parts for Boge Turbo Strut install versus Bilstein HD Strut install. Do you see anything wrong with either list. The list is in sequential install order?

Boge Turbo Strut Install = strut in tube, locking nut (prevent strut from moving in tube, strut boot, strut bumper, coil, upper coil rubber bumper, metal plate, strut mount bearing, strut mount, car frame, rubber insert, nut.

Bilstein HD Strut Install = strut in tube, coil, upper coil rubber bumper, metal plate, strut mount bearing, strut mount, car frame, rubber insert, nut.

Please help. I thought I was doing my car and myself a favor by intalling the New Bilstien HD Strut, Shocks, Ball Joint, Outer Tie Rod, Strut Mount Bearing, and Strut Mount. I cannot drive the car the way it is, so your advice is requested. (PS, I also would have replace the inner tie rod, but I bought the wrong rack boot. New inner tie rod will go on when I get the correct rack boot.) I thank you in advance for your replies.







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91 Volvo 745 Turbo, 91 Nissan 300ZX TT, and 01 Volvo S60 2.4T

"Second question: I was also told that Bilstein HD did not need the locking nut, because the Bilstein HD size match up with the tube. (The locking nut prevent the Boge Turbo from moving in the tube.) Could this be the cause of the clunking? "

Who told you that? You need to install the locking nut on the top of the strut tube. No wonder you have clunking.
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john

John,

Thanks for the quick reply. Did you reuse the old locking nut or did the Bilstein HD have its own locking nut?

Sorry for making such a stupid mistake but the new Bilstein HD did not come with new locking nut and the insert fit inside the tube was very good. Not tight as some people have experience. Last. but not least, it did not look like my old locking nut would fit so I left it off.

The Bilstein HD just had the strut insert and the top nut. A another quick reply from you is requested and greatly appreciated. Could you also please provide a comment on my last question regarding parts for Boge Turbo Strut versus the Bilstein HD. I thank you in advance for your help.
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91 Volvo 745 Turbo, 91 Nissan 300ZX TT, and 01 Volvo S60 2.4T

The picture below shows a Bilstein strut cartridge, nut and boot for 1985 and later 700 series, and 900 series. If the nut shown did not come with the strut cartridges, you must get one.

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john

Thanks John,

I owe you one. I just went out and jack up the car to see if I could see the nut in question. Bilstein did indeed include the nut, but it was under the boot cover and at the top end of the strut cylinder rather than at the bottom end. All the other struts I have ever installed never had built boot covers or built in bump stop but they alway had new gland nut and top nut. These Bilsteins HD had both, and I should have known that they would have included the nut.

PS. In hindsight, I should have look under the boot cover of the strut before installing them. However, I did not remove the dust cover because I did not want to tear them up. Once again, thanks for the timely posting and excellent pictures. One last thing, you take and post some of the best & informative pictures and replies and I thank you. Have a great day.
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91 Volvo 745 Turbo, 91 Nissan 300ZX TT, and 01 Volvo S60 2.4T

Evidently Bilstein also supplies a flat washer to go in the bottom of the strut. Did you install it? Do you need a picture?

If the strut nut tightens down without bottoming out, you may not need the flat washer.

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john

John,

1. A picture of said washer would be great and appreciated. Did you have to install said washer in your car?

2. From your above statement about the strut nut being tighten down without bottoming out, I take this to mean that:

a. When I tighten down the strut nut on the tube, I should still see some thread left on the strut nut. If I do see some threads, then I would not need the washer.
b. If the strut nut being tighten down tube goes all the way down the tube and I can not see any threads left, they I would need the washer.

Is this correct?


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91 Volvo 745 Turbo, 91 Nissan 300ZX TT, and 01 Volvo S60 2.4T

Several months ago I bought a set of used MacPherson front struts. I sent the struts to someone (I don't remember who), and kept the very useable Bilstein strut cartridges. When I removed the cartridges, the washer in the picture was at the bottom of the strut tube. I don't know if the washer was supplied with the strut cartridges, or if it was field installed to insure a good fit.

When you tighten the strut tube nut down make sure it is holding the strut cartridge securely and there can be no up and down motion. If there can be motion, install a washer just like is in the picture. The washer is being used as a shim.
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john

John,

My 1991 745 Turbo did not have nor needed a washer/shim/spacer. The strut insert fit was very good after the gland nut, locking nut, strut nut, and anything else it is called was tighten up and now there is no more clunking. My thanks to you once again. Have a great day.
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91 Volvo 745 Turbo, 91 Nissan 300ZX TT, and 01 Volvo S60 2.4T

If I was in Texas, you could do my taxes.
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john