Hello everyone, especially Bilstein HD installer and user,

Background: I suspected that Boge Turbo Gas Strut I installed three year ago were dead because I got a pronouce clunk going over large bumps like railroad tracks and the suspension was not as smooth over rough surface like it was when new. I started and finished my installation of new Bilstein HD Strut and shocks on my 1991 745 Turbo yesterday. (Got them for $359 from FCPGroton.) Please note I also installed new TRW ball joint, TRW outer tie rod, SKF strut bearings, and SKF strut mount.

Test drove the car this morning and I get lots of clunking. I mean I get clunking driving over small rocks let alone small bumps. Like I said before I only got clunking with the dead Boge Turbor Gas Struts over railroad tracks only. Never heard clunking from them over normal or rough road surface.

First question: I was told that Bilstein HD did not need strut boot or bumper stop like the Boge Turbo, so I did not install them. The Bilstein HD had its own strut boot but it did not have a strut bumper. Could this be the cause of the clunking?

Second question: I was also told that Bilstein HD did not need the locking nut, because the Bilstein HD size match up with the tube. (The locking nut prevent the Boge Turbo from moving in the tube.) Could this be the cause of the clunking?

Third question: The following is a list of parts for Boge Turbo Strut install versus Bilstein HD Strut install. Do you see anything wrong with either list. The list is in sequential install order?

Boge Turbo Strut Install = strut in tube, locking nut (prevent strut from moving in tube, strut boot, strut bumper, coil, upper coil rubber bumper, metal plate, strut mount bearing, strut mount, car frame, rubber insert, nut.

Bilstein HD Strut Install = strut in tube, coil, upper coil rubber bumper, metal plate, strut mount bearing, strut mount, car frame, rubber insert, nut.

Please help. I thought I was doing my car and myself a favor by intalling the New Bilstien HD Strut, Shocks, Ball Joint, Outer Tie Rod, Strut Mount Bearing, and Strut Mount. I cannot drive the car the way it is, so your advice is requested. (PS, I also would have replace the inner tie rod, but I bought the wrong rack boot. New inner tie rod will go on when I get the correct rack boot.) I thank you in advance for your replies.







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91 Volvo 745 Turbo, 91 Nissan 300ZX TT, and 01 Volvo S60 2.4T

As Steve indicated, your problem is that you're lacking the nut at the top of the strut tube. That nut is there to keep the strut from moving up and down, not side to side as someone lead you to believe. Right now, every time you go over a bump, your strut is slamming around in the tube causing the clunk.

On a side note, your Boge Turbo Gas struts and shocks had a lifetime warrantee. So if they were shot, they owe you a set of new ones.

Jeff Pierce
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'93 945 Turbo ( one kickass family car ! ), '92 Mercedes 190E (my daily driver), '53 Willys-Overland Pickup (my snow-plow truck/conversation piece -- sold to a loving home), '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow

1. Thanks for the informative reply.

2. I forgot who I bought the strut and shocks from. It was one of my first purchase and I cannot find the receipt. Actually they are the only receipt that is missing from my records collection. FCPGroton, was/has been kind eneough to tell me that will accept my strut if I can send them back with the box they came with. However those boxes were thrown out with the trash in my garage clean up day, six months back.

3. If anyone has the Boge Turbo Gas Strut boxes they can send to me I will be gratefull and will even give money for them.

PS. FCPGroton check their own computer records and could find all my other receipts for everyone purchase I made from them. They stated I did not buy them from them and I trust them. The offer stated in number two was made after this finding. Yet one more reason I like FCPGroton and Nick.

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91 Volvo 745 Turbo, 91 Nissan 300ZX TT, and 01 Volvo S60 2.4T

So true. Nick @ FCP Groton is fantastic. I always get great customer service from them. And I was amazed to find that they keep all my previous orders on file. I bought a set of springs from them over 2 years ago, and never got around to installing them. I've since sold the car, and came across the springs while cleaning out my shop -- of course I didn't have thre receipt anymore. Gave them a call, Nick looked it up and said, "Yup, just send them back and we'll credit you." Unbelievable! Gotta love those guys.

Jeff Pierce
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'93 945 Turbo ( one kickass family car ! ), '92 Mercedes 190E (my daily driver), '53 Willys-Overland Pickup (my snow-plow truck/conversation piece -- sold to a loving home), '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow

The locking nuts are always required (who told you otherwise?) both on the top of the strut tube and the top of the shock rod in the engine compartment. See the 700/900 FAQ for complete instructions.

You should also inspect the strut mount top bearings to make sure they did not separate, although I suspect that the lack of the strut tube gland nut is the cause of your clunking noise.

Ummm...
The Bilstein strut cartriges definitely do require the strut tube nuts; if you didn't install them, go back and start over.

My first guess is that you missed something. Jack the car up with the wheel free and move the wheel...Up, down and all around. Could just be the wheel bearing!
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1965 Mustang A block 4 speed, 1969 Cougar Eliminator, 1990 Super-Charged Thunderbird and a car (740) that my wife can drive!!!

I recently installed Bilstein HD's on my '92 745. You definitely need the cartridge retaining nut. I bought my set from www.shox.com, and they even gave me a Bilstein tool to tighten them. I got 'em tight, but there were still some threads showing...the flange of the nut did not tighten down flush to the strut tube. I hammered 'em home tight, and with Loctite. (I hope most of you who have been there can visualize what I am trying to describe. It is tough to get 'em tight with the entire strut tower hanging from a coat hanger without using a hammer to ensure enough torque to set the nut.) I need to thank this board and the 700/900 FAQ for giving me the confidence to tackle the job myself. Also did new ball joints and strut arm bushings prior to changing the struts.

No clunking. They are stiff shocks, but they take anything you put them through with total control. In tight situations they are inspiring...on long runs of bumpy freeway expansion joints they can be annoying. If I were to do it again, I would probably go with the KYB's and save 50%. I can't wait to get some IPD sways...
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'92 745 B230F