Volvo RWD 700 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 4/2005 700 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 700 1987

Hello all, 1987 760 turbo, I have a problem with fuel getting into the oil. I wanted to test the ECT engine coolant temperature sensor from the ECU computer, but my specs didn't match up with the specs in the FAQ.

For voltage between pins 13 and 5 (ground) I got around 12 volts (DC), which I think was the exact current voltage of the battery. Also for resistance I got infinity between pins 13 and 5. However, testing resistance directly on the sensor's pins, I got something which was probably up to specs. I did make sure to leave the sensor connected and the ignition was ON, but I didn't start the car. Also the connector's connection looked solid and clean. But I do have a general wiring harness problem with a lot of wires under the hood. . . . . I was thinking the sensor's OK but a problem with the wiring maybe?








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 700 1987

    Having had a similar rich running problem - I would test the resitance of the temp sensor at engine cold and at warm - there is a range it works within and that would tell you if it is reacting to temp - finding whether it is in spec is tougher unless you remove it..but at that point I would just replace it. First check the fuel pressure regulator by removing the vacuum line going into it and looking or smelling for fuel - this part is easy to replace if it is bad - and problem is solved...another way to do this is to attach some fule like the to return end of the FPR and put that end in a portable gas tank - then when running the car you can see a stream of fuel at idle that would otherwise be returning to the fuel tank - if there is not a steady stream FPR could be bad - of course be cautious with fuel and running engine - (know safety methods..not knowing how experienced you are). Removing the ECT sensor takes some practice the first time around becuase it is under the manifold and tough to get at - but a 3/8 drive with a 10" extension can get to it.

    The AMM is another cause for a rich car - and mine elluded me for months before I got another know good unit to swap it with. If the engine is running rough after running rich this long or the plugs are fouled and you will need to replace them after doing any repairs to set a base line standard for ignition - so you can also check to see if things are fixed by looking at them after running the engine. If you have a multi-meter you can check 02 sensor for rich/lean condition to diagnose the repair - all in the FAQ secionts

    Good luck.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 700 1987

    Having had a similar rich running problem - I would test the resitance of the temp sensor at engine cold and at warm - there is a range it works within and that would tell you if it is reacting to temp - finding whether it is in spec is tougher unless you remove it..but at that point I would just replace it. First check the fuel pressure regulator by removing the vacuum line going into it and looking or smelling for fuel - this part is easy to replace if it is bad - and problem is solved...another way to do this is to attach some fule like the to return end of the FPR and put that end in a portable gas tank - then when running the car you can see a stream of fuel at idle that would otherwise be returning to the fuel tank - if there is not a steady stream FPR could be bad - of course be cautious with fuel and running engine - (know safety methods..not knowing how experienced you are). Removing the ECT sensor takes some practice the first time around becuase it is under the manifold and tough to get at - but a 3/8 drive with a 10" extension can get to it.

    The AMM is another cause for a rich car - and mine elluded me for months before I got another know good unit to swap it with. If the engine is running rough after running rich this long or the plugs are fouled and you will need to replace them after doing any repairs to set a base line standard for ignition - so you can also check to see if things are fixed by looking at them after running the engine. If you have a multi-meter you can check 02 sensor for rich/lean condition to diagnose the repair - all in the FAQ secionts

    Good luck.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 700 1987

    Thanks guys. I will check out the FPR some more, it's vac. line smells like gas, but gas never comes out of it when running.

    And it's good to know I have LH 2.2, not LH 2.4 ! I'll check it out at pin #2. Does anyone know where I can find out what each pin connects to at the ECU?, e.g. - pin #2 = ECT sensor.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 700 1987

      I was just guessing on LH 2.2. I think '87 would be too early for 2.4, but could be wrong.

      All that pin info, resistance testing the ETC, etc. is in the 700/900 FAQ.
      --
      Bruce Young
      '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 700 1987

    Assuming you have LH 2.2 (I'm not familiar with 700s), the ECT sensor wire is Pin 2 at the ECU.

    Pin 13 goes to the Injector common, but I don't think it should read 12V unless the Fuel Relay is energized (shouldn't be unless cranking or running).

    I would measure resistance from the ECU connector Pin 2 (unplugged), to be sure the wire is good from the sensor to the ECU.
    --
    Bruce Young
    '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor 700 1987

    Hi mike.regarding the fuel getting in the oil,i think the fuel pressure regulator is bad.you can read in the FAQ on how to test it.good luck.charles.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.