I recently installed a trio of gauges from a 240 Turbo in my GLE. I replaced the turbo gauge with an ambient temp gauge, which work well. I found that Volvo had wired the GLE with the appropriate harness to install these gauges, even though the car did not come with the gauges themselves. All I had to do was plug the gauge harness into the existing harness. The yellow wire for the ambient emp gauge extended from the behind-dash connection all the way to another blank connection in front of the battery area, making installation a breeze.
The problem I have is with the new oil pressure gauge (5 bar).
First problem: As soon as I turn the ignition key, the gauge spikes to a full 5 bar. ( I am still waiting arrival of a 3-contact pressure sender, and at present only have the original black-wire oil idiot light connected to the existing single terminal sender). I checked the harness at the gauges and it corresponds to the schematic (blue/red for power from fuel relay, black for ground, and green for signal from the intended dual terminal sender). However, when I check continuity between the three spades on the gauge itself, I find that all three spades are connected. Is this right, or is there a problem with the gauge? Shouldn't the green wire be isolated from continuity with the
Second problem: I have hunted for the end of the oil gauge harness (green wire) in the engine bay and can't find it. If the harness was in place behind the dash for this trio of gauges, there must be a plug somewhere in the engine bay for the sender. Is it in the umbilical that travels under the front of the engine to the alternator?

As I said earlier, I have a two terminal sender coming. Do I connect the existing black idiot light wire to one contact and a green wire( if I can find it) to the other, or is there something more esoteric to all this?
Can someone please please please help me sort this mess out?
Thanks
JD

I also installed the three gauge setup in my 89 244 n/a, used the black wire for the idiot light on the sender.. i used a sender from the tubro car i got the gauge from.. it is attached to the turbo with a short piece of angled pipe so be careful removing it.. there are two terminls on it. g is to the manuel gauge and the other is for idiot light..I also ran a seperate green wire from connector on dash to the sending unit..followed the wires that ran around the radiator past the battery and to dash..And yes it will go all the way over if it is not connected to the manuel sender terminal..all senders are marked near the threads on one of the flats..it reads either 3 or 5 bars, match your gauge to the proper bar sender.. Max
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights.

Hi!
I'm just installed a three gauge set, but still looking for the sender. Where you find it?
Thanks

Someone on Brickboard referred me to the following site, where I located the correct sender.
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_sgrp.asp?Subgroup=Pressure_Sender

Sorry to bother but my technical knowledge doesn't go to the level to decide which of the senders on that page will work for my 5 bar gauge. Would you tell me which one you bought?

I have ordered 360-009, but have not yet received it. Of course if you have a 9 bar gauge, you will want the apprpriate sending unit; my gauge is 5 bar.
Dave S recommended a 360-009D, but I was unable to find one with that suffix.
JD

1 bar = 14.7psi, 5bar X 14.7psi ~= 80psi. you need part number 360 009D Needless to say these are not precision instruments but they will give you a good idea of the pressure.
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Dave Shannon
Spring Valley, California
'88-240 190K+
'65 1800S ????K
'73 1800ES 117K
'92 745Ti 160K
Jeep Wrangler Sahara 19K
my pages

Hi JD
The stock sender is grounded at 0, opening up at 7.5 psi (infinite ohms). Your gauge is pegging as soon as you turn on the key, this indicates the green wire is not attached to the stock sender (couldn't be or the light wouldn't work either)

The gauge will peg if the green wire is not grounded. The dual terminal sender starts with a 100% ground signal at no oil pressure (0 ohms), the resistance gradually gets higher as pressure builds moving the needle up the scale.

To prevent the sender from pegging disconnect the plug from the back 'till you get the proper sender then find the end of the green wire in the engine compartment and connect it to the "G" terminal. No need to run extra wires.

Where are you? I've never heard of or seen a car in the US that was pre-wired for these gauges except the turbos which have their stock gauges.
Cheers
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Dave Shannon
Spring Valley, California
'88-240 190K+
'65 1800S ????K
'73 1800ES 117K
'92 745Ti 160K
Jeep Wrangler Sahara 19K
my pages

Hi Dave:
In answer to your question, I am located in nBC on the Alaska Hwy.
I do not know if prewireing all 240 models for any range of options was standard practice of not, but the wires and connectors for the gauges was behind the glove shelf/pocket when I removed it from my GLE. There are also extra connectors in the engine bay and under the dash that I can only presume to be for other options.
As per your advice I have disconnected the plug until such time as I receive the correct sender. And thanks for the description of the manner in which this switch works; most helpful!
JD
1965 1800S
1974 Jensen Healey
1984 240 GLE
1989 760 GLE
1992 969 GLE

Nice group of cars in your sig, I guess all or some may have been prewired up north but the US spec cars are sadly lacking in that department. Good for you however.
Cheers
--
Dave Shannon
Spring Valley, California
'88-240 190K+
'65 1800S ????K
'73 1800ES 117K
'92 745Ti 160K
Jeep Wrangler Sahara 19K
my pages

Well the sender is designed for the switch to open at 7.5 psi and it is sending a signal (enough to light the dash oil light) and thats whats spiking the gauge,

The 2 pole sender (1 to idiot light 1 to gauge)will open at 7.5 psi and will send the approprite signal to the right place if you wire it correctly.

As to the GLE harness just disconnect the green wire from the plug and run a new green to the terminal for the gauger output and the black wire to the idiot light, and it should work fine.

Stoney;
Your solution to simply run a new green wire to the two pole sender would certainly be the simplest solution, and one I will undertake. However I still wonder why the three contacts on ther rear of the gauge are contected.
Thanks
JD

1 is signal from sender
1 is +12v lighting for gauge
1 is ground for gauge

Your problem of pinning of needle at max is the question I thought you were asking and which I answered.
The model did come wired for gauges and somewhere in the firewall is the connector.

Many folks make the basic error of installing the oil pressure gauge and not switching the sender, thus the max scale readings...