I'm with the others, clean or replace your flame trap. It can definitely cause a RMS leak! Ask me how I know about this...

Hold on a minute though....Other related parts can also cause oil leaks. I suggest that you check all hoses going into the flame trap for clogs. If in doubt, replace hose. They are cheap! Finally, check and clean the brass nipple in the intake manifold. Little hose from the FT goes into this nipple. Be careful removing/cleaning this little sucker as it is brass!

FYI - your picture looked like my car when it was still leaking - except mine was much worse! It took a couple of tries, but after replacing the trap, 2 hoses and cleaning the nipple my car is finally LEAK FREE!!!


Good luck,
--
Jim 90 244DL 243K

could also be a turbo return pipe leak (if u have one) or a leak from the oil seperator (top or bottom)...

the airflow down there moves stuff around a lot...

Dear Greg,

Good p.m. and may this find you well. It could be a rear main seal (RMS) leak. To find out, pull the aluminum bracket at the front of the oil pan (secured by six hex bolts). If there's a oil on the casing under the ring gear teeth (exposed, when the bracket is removed) that's evidence of a rear main seal leak.

You should also check:
(a) the front seals [inside the timing belt cover]
(b) the oil pan bolts [as already suggested]
(c) the dome gasket [below the oil filler cap]

These three - and the RMS - are the places where excessive crankcase pressure vents.

Remove the replace the entire flametrap assembly. It isn't hugely costly.

Then, clean the "filter" every 5K miles and change the filter every 10K.

A rear main seal replacement will run about US$300-350, depending on location.

It is a good idea to have the trans tailshaft bushing replaced, if it shows signs of bleeding fluid.

Hope some of this is useful.

Yours faithfully,

spook

That can also be a distributor seal leak. It can run down the back of the engine and show up there. Also check the front seals, if both they and the rear are leaky, the trap may very well be the root cause. However, I think your overall usage problem is more indicative of piston rings. Have someone follow you down the road. Once your car is warmed up, stomp on the gas and have your tail observe the tailpipe emissions. The aerodynamics of Volvos are such that smoky exhaust is difficult to see from the driver's seat since it stays so low to the road. You really need a tail to watch for smoke and color.
--
Bob Kraushaar '94 945T, '88 240, '84 242Ti, '94 F-150, '88 300 TE, '89 560 SL, '68 Shelby GT-500 KR

First I'd change the flame trap..If you don't know when it was changed then it needs changing. then check the back of the engine for other "wet" places... and I'm with art... I have driven a lot of leakers in my day and that does not look to be anywhere near a half quart per thousand mile leak.

Bret
--
rust free in west Texas

Greetings,

Check the torque on the oil pan bolts. They have a tentency to "back off" during the life of the car. Also look for a leak of the front crankshaft seal carrier plate to block gasket. Thats where I found mine leaking (Oil was running along the pan gasket to the back of the engine)

Mike

'94 940 B230FT 102k-miles

strange, the image links didnt show up. let me try again.

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http://home.comcast.net/~dsmphotos/leak.jpg

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http://home.comcast.net/~dsmphotos/leak2.jpg

in case those arent clickable


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