After futzing for a couple of months with my k-jet mixtures, I have it all set now, apparently, by installing a later model Control Pressure Regulator, which required fabricating a new line from the CPR tto the Fuel Distributor that connected with 'banjo' fittings instead of the press-fit nylon hoses. Fromteh FI manuals, apparently all CPRs have very similar pressure curves, and could very well be interchangeable. I want one of the vacuum enrichment ones, now.

The parts were 8, 10, and 12 mm Parker barbed banjo fittings and 3/8 and 1/4 hp hose, which I got from local hydraulic hose and parts house. I'll find and post the part numbers, if anyone's interested.

I also changed the line from the fuel filter to the Fuel Dist, replacing the filter end with a 12 mm banjo fitting pressed into a 3/8 hose, so I can use the 240 fuel filters instead of the 140, which are hard to find. I teed off from the 3/8 to a 5/16 for the cold start injector using brass barbed hose parts I got at Ace Hardware. That was the lucky find. Apparently 5/16 high pressure is unique to automotive, the hydraulics guy explained that they calculated everything down to fractions of a cent of cost.

I got a hood fulla pipe now, compared to the little lines before.




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'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'

I yanked my vacuum enrichment system from a 280E w123 Mercedes. (Actualy, my whole K-jet is from that mercedes, I just pluged 2 of the injector lines.) It comes in 2 pieces, one is the normal control thing (which hooks up to manifold.) and then it hooks up to another diaphram thing which again goes to the manifold... (Don't know what for...)
But yes, with the vacuum hooked and unhooked, you can feel some difference.

Did you use the MB airflow sensor, too?

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'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'

yep...
It draws the air down vs. Volvo's drawing air up. But besides that, the engine runs like a charm. (I even have the MBs throttle body 2 1/2, but I don't recommend it. Just looks cool cause it's big.)

got any pics of this install?

Sorry... the pics are in the reply to uniberp.

I'm not picturing this very well. B20 engine?
TB on end of manifold? Got any pics?
However, I'm going to look for a w123 to scavenge the CPR and pickup from.
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'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'

Sorry, I forgot to mention, I made my own manifold. I went through this whole setup because I got the whole K-jet for free and I had no access to an FI manifold. Another reason to this setup is because I wanted to turbo this engine and I knew the 280E setup would feed enough fuel for my needs. (But then I had detonation problems with the turbo, and blew out a ring. The retard machanism jammed in distributor) So I had to go through a rebuild.
I have now ditched this setup and I am using a L-jet system from a 3t-gte toyota engine, and ca18det injectors. Part of the reason is because this ECU senses knock which then increases fuel. (Very crude system... no electronic timing control) I would recommend this ecu to anyone, very easy to play with...
Here are the pics from the ole K-jet...

Cool. I get it.
So, pretty much, if the control pressure is about the same, and the deadhead pressure is about the same, then the injector pressure will be close enough to work, and be tuned with the CO adjustment and any vacuum modulation that is available?

Putting a turbo on this engine is a very ambitious project, good effort on your part.




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'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'

One more picture I found... this is when I finished my setup.

Now I'm considering LPG hehe... gas prices are rising fast here.

About the control pressure, I played abit with that device.
In the automotive lab at my uni, they have a huge pile of K-jet stuff. (Mostly new parts.) I used lots of these parts to play with my car.
I actually measure several control pressure units, and the pressure readings when it was fully warm were very much the same. But when the units were cold, there was quite some difference. (I measure 4, from an audi, volvo 244, w123 mb 280E, and one from a w126 500sel) I think that is probably due the the warm-up characterisics of each type of engine.

If you look at the left item (the diaphram looking thing). This thing goes between the control pressure unit and the distributor head on the return side.

Metering head- diaphram thing- control unit- return line.

The diaphram thing seems to also heap enrichment. (But don't know why they made it that way, as the control unit also has vacuum hooked up for enrichment.)
Don't know if that helped much.

i replaced my cpr with a more modern one years ago. never thought about putting a vacume enrichment one in. thats a great idea. know of any cars that have a vacume enrichment cpr. i'm going to search the PnP's and try and find a vacume enrichment one. maybe from a vw?

What is the advantage of a vacum enrichment CPR?
I pulled off a fuel distributor and CPR with all the banjo fittings from a '75 240 because I agree that the banjo fittings look much cleaner under the hood. Have yet to put them on.
I am thinking of installing a in tank pre-pump. Has anyone done this? Would one out of an '80s turbo work?
Does any one know the difference in fuel pressure between a '74 K-jet system and an 80's turbo system? I am toying with the idea of converting a turbo charger to a supercharger and putting it in.
I am thinking I will most likely need more fuel....maybe changing to an 80's turbo distributor etc. would be the way to go.

-Ted
'74 144GL
'59 PV445

It would actually be "not" vacuum enrichment. When you open the throttle, vacuum drops. A little richer mix at that point helps get things started a little faster and cooler.

Putting boost on a NA/FI car is a technical undertaking.

I have the 75-84 CIS manual which includes b21ft turbos, and the sensors and wiring for the turbo make it seem easier to install the complete engine and all, than to convert the b20 to boost.

All the CPR's have very close pressure settings about 375kPa max. The boost sensitive one drops to abotu 275 for a second, using an intake press sensor and and a 'delay' valve. There's another type listed called 'altitude compensating'.
That may be the one that has an actual 'vacuum' sensor.

v_performance makes a supercharger kit, but I like this:
http://www.djhudson.com/video/turbo_amazon.wmv

(or http://www.djhudson.com/video right-click on turbo_amazon.wmv
and 'save target as' to get a clean load of it)
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'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'

I like the Autoroter supercharger that VPD offers. If I had an extra $3500.00 laying around I would most certainly get one.

Check out http://www.gatorsuperchargers.net/photos/photos.htm. I don't think it would be too difficult to slap one of these puppies in between the fuel distributor and intake manifold on a Kjet B20 using borrowed pick'n pull plumming from a 240t or 740t. I already have a
Garrett T3 (a larger Hollset might even be more desireable) and 740 intercooler sitting in my trunk. I am thinking that a SAAB APC (see turbobricks) will handle boost .

I am wondering how I would increse fuel pressure if needed and what sort of fuel delivery system would work best...add shims to my existing fuel distributor or upgrading to a more moden junkyard unit.

-Ted

That turbo-supercharger is something I've never seen befor (or thought of).

Are there gears or something inside that box attached to it to increase the rpm's? Like anthony already said, turbo's normally operate at dizzling rpm's...

cheers, ben
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P131, '65, B20B+M47. P131, '69, B20E+AW71L+LSD. (www.tinustechniek.tk)

I like the idea of this charger, but does it really work? Cause to my understanding, a typical turbo spools up to 150000rpm... so will these compressors push out enough air at much lower rpms?
This seems like a real neat project for me to do, since I have a huge truck turbo here with damaged rear turbine blade; I could make use of the front compressor.
Learning something new everyday.

I think a large truck compressor would be ideal. You would get more volume at less speed. RPM is determined by the size of the pully(s) used. How well they work I think depends on how they are put together for the K-Jet B20 application. People are using them on other cars. I am not sure if they are getting the results as claimed with the Autoroter but they may be a solution for those of us wanting at least a little more go out of their B20. Check out the Paxton Novi supercharger. A home made belt drive turbo is kind of a smaller, cheaper (less expensive) version of that.

-Ted

That's it... Next time I go to see my uncle, I'll get the truck turbo I got for free. (It's huge, about 4inch inlet used on a v12 tow-truck, maybe I ought to get something smaller, but hey, it's free.) And I'll fiddle with it, hook a lawn-mover engine to it and measure how much air it will push out. To my understanding, those big turbos spin at much lower rpms than those tiny things because of the large compressor blades. This should be done in a bit over a month, I'll post reports once it's done.
But if it really works out, I may have to find a new hood for my Volvo, as I'll have to put a hole in it to mount this huge thing over the valve cover.
This is going to be fun!

A big turbo on a small 4-cyl. means very little boost UNTIL you get to high rpm's. It is the turbine which spins the compressor wheel. Big turbos have big, heavy turbines which won't spin without a lot of exhaust flow (ie. rpm), which means the compressor isn't spinning enough to create boost until said high rpm's.

Small turbos have much less lag,and therefore, are more 'pleasant' to drive on the street. At higher rpm's those small turbos do become a restriction...

No, I'm using the turbo's compressor side to make a supercharger....

That's what I thought, but wasn't quite sure.

I don't think it would take up any more room than an A/C compressor / power steering pump and I am sure that the same mounting points can be used. With the blower on the driver side it would be a short trip through the intercoller to the intake maniforld. One could leave the fi distributor where it is and run a pipe in front of the intercooler or swap it with the battery. I am most likely going to go with the pipe. You might want to add some compressed air using an inline air amplifer to make sure that bigger blower gets what it needs...
-Ted

There is a problem haha...
I live in Thailand, so the car is righthand drive, so steeringbox and alternator are on one side, while on the other side is the AC compressor (I need it, it's mostly over 35 degress Celcius all year round...) So not much room.
But I'll get the charge done first, then I'll think about the fitting...