I've gone through 2 sets of rotors in the last 6-10K. Something is not right here.

Coincidental with the first rotor replacement about 10K ago, I replaced struts and strut rod bushings. The first strut rod bushing were poly - Didn't like those and went back to rubber with the second rotor replacement.

Also, replaced the left front hub due to a broken alignment stud. This time, I'll check the runout on the hub. I did check runout on the rotors, right front was very small and uniform, but left front had a .003 high spot even with shimming.

This time I'll reinspect hub runout. Any tips?

Also, I suspect a worn caliper, so I'm replacing those and hoses.

Any thoughts, tips appreciated.

Thanks, Tom

Try using original Volvo pads or quality organic pad from a good auto parts store. Semi-metallic pads eat rotors. The organic pads will wear more quickly, but save lots more money due to R&R of the more expensive rotors.

Good luck, Greg
--
2001 V70 Wagon, 81K miles...'92 960 Wagon, 181K miles...'92 740 Turbo Wagon, 225K miles (retired)

Besides over torquing the wheel studs, the pins on which the floating calipers slide can get corroded and cause the caliper to hang up. This can overheat the disc through pad friction and warp the discs. The pins must be clean, lubricated (I use Syl-glide) and the rubber boots intact.

If you are putting in new calipers, that problem should be taken care of. I think there may be more on the brakes in the 700/900 FAQ.

Tom,

Are these rotors wearing out to below min. thickness or warping? If they are warping have the lugs been over torqued? Only 65 ft lbs evenly hand torqued or the rotors could be damaged. Are both fronts going bad or just one side?

Warping. Don't know if there is a side to side difference. I'll measure this weekend. I don't think I've overtorqued. I do it myself with a torque wrench, and I do it finger tight, then 60%, 80%, 100% increments.

Thanks.
Tom