In a couple days I will begin this undertaking. I have Bentley, Haynes, a link to Art Bernsteins directions for the blower motor and a link to Don Fosters description of the chainsaw method for replacing the blower motor. I'm leaning away from using the chainsaw method at this point. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,

Tom
240 DL Wagon, 233k

Go under the car with a blowtorch or plasma cutter and have at it,, if nothing blows up or catches on fire then you got it made.. WAIT What am I talking about? Sorry wrong life that was my previous life..before I saw the large flash while cutting the floor pans out to get to the heater box..Wow everything is all white now..hmmm .. ok its late and I am bored.. Ignore all the information and listen to Art..
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights.

Apart from Art's and Don's descriptions, I'll recommend a thorough read of Chris Herbst's posts w/pictures:
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=547168&show_all=1
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=543589&show_all=1

Have fun. I'll send you a sympathizing thought when you reached this stage [(c) Chris Herbst]:


Erling.
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My 240 Page

Test the new heater core before beginning. I have done two heater core replacements in the last year, '89 760 and '87 740. The first heater core had a faulty solder joint and hence a small leak.

I tested them by immersing in a tub of water and connecting a hose to compressed air, 15 to 20 PSI. The first one had a tiny pin hole but a small bubble formed every couple of seconds.


Good Luck,
Dan

I just did that job two weeks ago on an 81 wagon. With a partner, three hours. Remove the steering wheel for sure. Both fan side covers off for sure. The heater core is removed by sawing the box with a small recip saw vertically on the passenger side to make a slot it can slide out of. DONT remove the heater box. Just gut it in situ. Best to have an old box to experiment on. Then duct tape and or hot melt glue gun the pieces back in once the new core is in place. It is only keeping air in after all. Instrument pod, center instrument console, glove box come out, heater ducts, center console pulled back a bit, that's all.
I have done enough of them for this lifetime. The trick is not to believe that the job must look factory when you are done - it only has to work like factory.
Drink heavily when done. Not before.

Rhys,

If I had your experience I think I could have saved myself a bunch of worrying, trying to bend those evap lines in the 91. The time savings is not important to me, a hobbyist, but the fear of fracturing that evaporator and all that expensive R12 would make me grab the sawzall in a heartbeat, if I'd have known.

I question whether many would want to try this as their first and possibly only attempt. But I'd sure be glad for some brave soul to document it in detail- relieving some of the undeserved stigma of authority given my amateur motor replacement story.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

With the AC evaporator in there, all bets are off Art. Up here in Canada very few early 240s had AC, so the cars I work on are just the hot water ones. The heater box, if you ever see one out of the car, is quite straightforward, and the bulge in it ahead of the fan area is the edge with the core. The top of the box is already wide open between the water inlet and outlet, to allow the box to split of course. One just carries that split down and to the "rolled" edge of the box to the bottom, across and back up. The core just slides right out. The inner fan housing has to be removed of course, on the passenger side, but other than that and cutting and two hose clamps, it goes quite well.
I don't have your photography skills, or the time usually, so documenting it further is a problem.
Duct tape, in Canada at least, is known as the "handyman's secret weapon", and stands up to the heat quite well, which it should, considering it is designed to seal heating ducts. A bit of lacquer thinner to clean the plastic box is a good idea before applying it of course.
Rhs

AC is one thing. Prior to 91, the lines to the evaporator are flexible hose. 91 and above are hard plumbed aluminum into the receiver dryer and to the frame rail steel pipe to the condenser. That was my surprise, as yes, I've had the boxes out and apart before.

Just a comment about closing the "access holes" to get to the fan, it you decide to cut rather than crack the case - from my one experience, duct tape (which was in fact not designed for use on heat ducts) will deteriorate over time. I used a piece of plexiglass, self tapping screws, and sealed it at overlap with RTV silicone or some liquid rubber. As stated, you're not going for a great look, only function and durability. Actually, you could use clear plexi, install some red LEDs and have a display piece, maybe a small brass plaque ..... sorry - too much coffee. Good luck.

Jim Weiss
833 245T/M46, 90 744T/M46. 90 760T, 93 945T, want more ...

Ceremonial knife, bamboo mat.
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80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

Start by removing the dash.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

I thought the Volvo manual says remove the steering wheel first?

Jim Weiss

Jim, you caught me. Never looked...until now.

The way mine reads, the first thing to be done is disconnect the battery, something I almost never do when I should. I did, though, before doing the heater core in the 91, with the airbag. Daughter asked where her radio pre-sets went.

Now on the steering wheel, my book is an older manual TP30202/2, purchased in '85. It suggests removing the steering column casing, but, not the wheel, which is much easier on the pre-1990 cars it covers.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

just make sure you drain the coolant VERY WELL!