looking to purchase a torque wrench for general repair and an engine rebuilding project. I thought the head bolts were torqued to ~150ft-lbs but the Volvo green book list it as an additional rotation from a lower value. this makes me believe I could get by with a torque wrench that might only go to 100ft-lbs. looking for some recomendations from someone with experience in this area.

thanks
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1990 240 Sdn 277K,tach,strut brace,turbo sway 1990 240 Wgn M47II 157K,tach,strut brace,poly bushings,IPD sways,bilsteins

Husky or Kobalt or SK/MAC 150 FtLb 1/2in drive (click type)are all comparable tools that will last as long as your 240.

My firm has a Skidmore Wilhelm Torque Wrench calibrator that goes to 1000 ft lbs and I regularly check our 700 ftlb and 1000 ftlb 3/4 in drive Proto and SK wrenches on it (every 6 months) against a Skidmore Wilhelm Model SM Load Cell Torque Verification machine (tests TC Guns, Air Wrenches and the like to see if they tighten A325 and A490 high strength bolts to 10% above min KIPS).(The Skidmores are calibrated yearly by a factory trained service tech).

I also do the same for my competitors tools, as a professional courtesy.

I have tested the "needle" type torque wrenches and have never found one to be within 40% of the reading shown on the face. The needle indicators are almost always bent and frequently the shafts are not "true" (arced left or right) and this can lead to over tightening or not enough torque applied when needed.

BTW 20% of the "new" wrenches I test are below the ftlbs shown on the dial/handle, avg is 25 ftlbs less than shown.

thanks guys for all the helpfull responses. ended up getting a Proto 6016 30-150ft-lbs torque wrench on ebay today.

Stoney,

You seem to know your torque wrench stuff. any opinion on the Proto 6016. The accuracy was spec'd at +-2% which seems better than most and graduations are in 1 ft-lb increments.
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1990 240 Sdn 277K,tach,strut brace,turbo sway 1990 240 Wgn M47II 157K,tach,strut brace,poly bushings,IPD sways,bilsteins

Proto is the Pro tools division of the Stanley Works late of New Britan, CT lately attempting to be of Bermuda (tax avoidance) but there tools are still in top of the market.

We use the 6020 3/4" 700 ft lb wrench religeously, it is one of the most durable tools I know of and has never drifted. Total maintainence is a few drops of oil and a smear of light grease once a year. (Our units are in use if not daily then 3 out of 5 days a week in seriously dirty environs).

The 6020 is almost 48 inches long and I think the blow molded case has a lot to do with keeping the tool accurate thru isolation of basic vibration and dirt in the back of the trucks.

I've used it on 3 1/4 in diameter bolts using a 4X Williams Torque multiplier
(700 ftlbs in = 2800 ft lbs out to the head), the only limitations are the size of the operator - one of my guys is a Fillipino and has trouble with overhead pulls as he weighs about 140 lbs. I once saw him doing chin ups
while attempting to get a 1 7/8 in dia A490 to click at 900 ft lbs in the overgead position!

Anyway Proto is the Springfield '03 of Torque wrenches, you take care of it and it will take care of you...

150 is better as stated. My favorite is the older style needle type rather than the ratchet type. Main reason is that during engine rebuild, you need to insure the crank rotates at a certain torque to insure bearings are done right. Easier to do that with needle type. They're cheaper too.

Skip
'93 850GLT
'83 242TI Flathood

Better than 90% of my torque wrench usage is for lug nuts; on a 240(85 lb-ft) a 150 is better, for 7/900(65 lb-ft) a 100 is better, for engine work 150 is best.
I have 4; 20, 50, 100 and 150.
'course I've collected 'em over 30 years.
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Jim McDonald