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Instructions for the clock/tach... You may want to print this out. It may seem like a lot of instructions, but I wrote this thing out step-by-step-by-step. It really won't take you very long at all.
1.) Some people recommend disconnecting the negative battery cable before removing the instrument cluster. -This is entirely up to you.- I have pulled my cluster *several* times without disconnecting any cables. I have had no problems. ** This step is OPTIONAL **
2.) Make sure that the steering wheel is centered. While the car is off, move the windshield wiper lever all the way down. Do the same for the turn signal lever.
3.) If your car is a 1989 or earlier (without an airbag), I find it easier to remove the cluster if I remove the center part of the steering wheel cover. You should be able to grab it from the top and then pull it towards you. You do not have to disconnect the two horn (black) wires, just let the cover dangle. ** This step is OPTIONAL **
4.) Remove the headlight switch/knob and the same rheostat/dimmer knob. The headlight switch knob might give you a little resistance when you pull it off for the first time, but pull it evenly towards you. Use your car key or a flathead to simply pry/pop off the backing plate. A good spot is right on the bottom of the backing plate. Insert and gently pry up. Pull it off and stick it in a good place.
5.) After doing step (4), it will expose two phillips head screws. Remove these. Be careful not to drop them as they become loose. Pull off the metal bracket and put it in a safe place.
6.) Working on the other side of the cluster, use the flathead or key to pop/pry off the two (2) accessory gauge panels (or blank panels).
7.) After doing step (6), it will expose the other two phillips head screws. Be careful not to drop them as they become loose.
8.) Pull the instrument cluster towards you... as far as you go before you hit the steering wheel (usually that little ledge of the steering wheel is a good place). Working from the your right to left, WRITE DOWN WHERE ALL THE WIRES PLUG INTO (ignore the large clock's wires). A little diagram is your best bet.
Sometimes a little force is needed to remove the full-moon and half-moon connectors. Be patient. What's good about those connectors are, they can only plug into one specific location. You won't get them mixed up.
9.) Once all the wires are disconnected, you should be able to slide the instrument cluster out to your right. Remove it and start working on replacing the clock.
10.) Remove all 7 gold-colored screws around the perimeter of the circuit board. Looking at the large clock from the back, remove the additional gold-colored screws that secure the clock. Keep these screws, as these will be needed to resecure the new tach.
11.) Gently remove the circuit board from the cluster housing. Flip the circuit board so you are facing the speedometer/clock/gauges. I usually use my thumbs to press and remove the clock from the cluster. Be patient, it will come out. ** Be careful not to lay the speedometer/gauges (face/dial side) directly on the table. This just prevents any potential damage to the gauges' needles. **
12.) Install the large tach. There are some metal contact pins that give the tach power and ground. Just be sure that when you slide the tach in its place, that contact is made. Once installed, reinstall the screws to secure the tach. I typically stand the circuit board up-right (so it's not lying down) when I tighten the screws in.
13.) Put the clock/tach filler plug in the hole on the cluster housing where the clock adjustment knob was. The end with the rubber circle/donut should be that it is facing you (standing up).
14.) 1986-1993 240’s Only: It is a good time to be sure that your temperature compensation board (the small little daughterboard underneath the gas/temp gauges) is making full contact and is properly seated. Often, people like to remove the board and clean the metal contacts and reinstall the small board. ** This step is OPTIONAL ** If it is working correctly, leave it alone!
15.) Gently put the circuit board back into the cluster housing. The only tricky part is getting that odometer reset lever back in the opening when you are holding the board down. It's not bad at all.
16.) Reinstall the 7 screws around the perimeter of the circuit board.
17.) Run the "wires-end" of the tach-to-clock wiring harness to the top gauge opening. Get the three rubber "feet" and insert them into the three grooves of the top gauge opening. Install the wiring to the clock. The green wire goes to the light bulb (the metal connector sticking up on the black plastic bulb holder). The red goes to the power +12V connector, and the black goes to the ground connector that is silver and located on the opposite side of the bulb on the edge. Insert the small clock in the gauge opening.
18.) When reconnecting the cluster wiring, BE SURE TO RECONNECT THEM IN THE SAME EXACT PLACES AS THEY WERE ORIGINALLY CONNECTED. ** Very important! ** Find the grey w/red stripe wire behind your cluster. It's back there... just look for it. Connect it into either one of the spade connectors on the BOTTOM of the tach. Connect the black plastic end of the tach-to-clock wiring harness to the TOP three connectors of the tach. The connector only goes on one way. DOUBLE CHECK ALL WIRING CONNECTIONS (i.e., count the wires from above and make sure everything is accounted for and hooked up).
19.) Once everything is connected, put the instrument cluster back into the opening where it belongs. You may have to gently pull up on your dashboard to get the top part of the cluster housing back in. No biggie. Once it is back in, move your turn signal and wiper switches back to "OFF." Turn on the car and check the tach functionality. If for some reason the tach does not function and your tach has two spade connectors on the bottom of it, try the other connector. Ordinarily, it does not matter which spade plug it is connected to. Shut off the car and continue.
20.) Reinstall the metal bracket from the left side, insert the two screws and tighten. Put the backing plate back on, then the knobs. For the right side, insert the two screws and tighten. Put the single gauge bezel around the clock. Then pop in the blank gauge panel bezel. To put the steering wheel center cover back on, insert the bottom portion in the grooves first and then push the top part downward while pushing the center top part inward. It's not that difficult, look how it connects before you do this for an idea.
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Regards,
Eric Staufer,
1989 244DL 126k,
My 240 Page (opens a new window)
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