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My '90 240 is having a rough few days. Started hesitating whenever I would stop at a light/sign, then would stall. Occasionally would start back up, sometimes would have to wait 5 minutes or so. Had already changed plugs, wires, rotor, distributor and fuel filter. Brought it to a garage to have code read, ended up blowing $400 on a "carbon flush" for the injectors, fuel rail, etc. Had injector o-rings replaced and vacuum leaks repaired. Throttle body also cleaned. Had no problems running, for 5 minutes anyway, and back to same hesitating/stalling. Garage also told me that the fuel pressure was low, though not an immediate fix. However, replaced both fuel pumps this weekend and also checked fuel pump relay (this was fine, soldering was intact with no indication of failure). Could also hear the main pump switching on/off w/ ignition. Garage isn't helping me at all and I'm at a loss as it's not starting consistently. Turns over nicely though. Had it started for maybe 5 minutes yesterday, then it stalled as I placed it into gear for test drive. HELP before the wife takes my car away!
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You might try unplugging the AMM, then see if it starts. If it does, the AMM is bad and the ECU defaulted to "limp home" mode.
The Crank Position Sensor is a good bet too, especially if original.
The Auto Tran Neutral Safety switch can't be seen without taking the shifter cover off.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) 240s (one V8) 140s 122s since '63.
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I agree with both of these as possibilities.
The test for the crank sensor would be to unplug the coil wire from the cap when the problem occurs, and place it over by the LF fender (not ground the end). Crank the engine and see if there's spark. If no spark replace crank sensor, it's gone intermittent.
If there IS spark, replacing the Fuel Pump Relay (PN 3523608) under the right side of the dash is a good bet, and if not done before you need one anyway.
The AMM is a real possibility, just put a new/used 016 AMM into a 90 245 this summer for similar problems. Ultimately it just wouldn't run with it CONNECTED. Ran ok disconnected. Definitely worth a shot- that car had no "Check Engine" code either.
The last trouble spot on the 90 is the computer. ALmost all the original "561" computers have failed by now, and are either "REMAN" (remanufactured) 561, or upgraded to later "951" unit. Certainly one of the things that can do this and worth looking at if none of the other stuff helps.
Sorry you've spent so much for so little results. This is why Volvo-only shops tend to have waiting lists to get in for service.... general practitioners can't know these cars inside out like that.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 234K, '82 245T/M46-182K, '89 244DL/AW70- 212K Not too distant past: 86 244DL 215K, 87 244DL 239K, 88 744GLE 233K, 88 244GL 147K, 91 244 183K
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Sorry for the idiot question, but where exactly is the AMM located? Is this the sensor immediately after the air filter?
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Is this the sensor immediately after the air filter?
Right The AMM (Air Mass Meter) connector plug has a locking spring that must be squeezed to release it. May need some wiggling to get it off at first.
Check that all the connecting pins in the plug are aligned. Some people have reported that the pins can become "unlatched" and get pushed back into the plug, thus making for poor/intermittent contact.
I had an '86 that would infrequently stall out, but would start right up again after the AMM plug was pulled off and put back onand be fine for months thereafter. (I didn't know about any of this then.)
Make sure the key is off when "exercizing" the AMM plug.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) 240s (one V8) 140s 122s since '63.
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Please correct me if I am wrong, though if the AMM were bad, wouldn't this throw a code out for all to see? And if so, what is this code (or codes if there happens to be more than 1)? I'd love to bust the mechanic on this if this happens to be the original problem. As you can tell, I am not happy with the garage I brought this to.
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Yes, there is one (1) AMM code, but that 1st generation diagnostic is not all that sophisticated, IMO. So it might not catch all possible failures.
Wish I could be more encouraging. I'd love to see you nail those masked men.
BTW, there is also a code for the Crank (rpm) Sender too. Codes and procedures are in the 700/900 FAQ (see Features menu above)
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) 240s (one V8) 140s 122s since '63.
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Just got a call from the garage, supposedly fixed (didn't say what it was as the tech was with another customer).
I want to thank everyone for all the great input! I'll be back, I'm sure, as I am a glutton for punishment and love to fix things myself!
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That issue of having to wait 5 minutes sounds EXACTLY like my problem - it turned out to be the Crank Position sensor - The ones with a yellow band around the wire at the plug end seem to contain a manufacturing defect. Replace with a white banded unit. The CPS is located at the top of your bell housing and plugs into a socket located along the firewall. Be carefull removing it. If it goes smoothly it ahould be a ten to fifteen minute job. If it break off and you accidentally crack the holder, your looking at having to drop the tranny to replace the bracket.
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Is it an auto? Had a similar problem with my '88 and the culprit was neutral start switch on the side of the shifter. After adjusting the switch the car has had no issues. Hope this helps.
John
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Yes, it's an auto. The only switch on the shifter itself is an upshift button. Any other recommendations?
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As other post mentioned you need to remove the shifter cover that is attached to the floor (two screws at the front and slide it backwards. Once removed the neutral start switch is located on the passenger side. Sorry I was not clear enough on this. The Bentley Manual has the procedure for adjusting the switch.
John
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Pardon my ignorance from this morning, trying to visualize while not in the same area of the car just doesn't come easy. I'll take a peek at this after I'm home.
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This isn't it at all if I'm reading the original correctly.
The car turns over with no problem, right? It just doesn't fire up.
The neutral safety switch in the shifter only interlocks the starter solenoid.
If it cranks every time you turn the key, it's not related to this.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 234K, '82 245T/M46-182K, '89 244DL/AW70- 212K Not too distant past: 86 244DL 215K, 87 244DL 239K, 88 744GLE 233K, 88 244GL 147K, 91 244 183K
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Right-o. Turns over no problem, just doesn't fire up. Since my last post I've replaced the fuel pump relay as well (as one of the switches was not closing at all with turning the ignition), though this didn't solve the problem either...so it's back at the garage. So much for trying it on my own!
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I think Art Benstein recently posted some good photos of adjusting the neutral safety switch, you might want to look for that. I think it was in reference to a reverse light problem (same bracket).
--
'81 GLT 245 W/245K; '83 DL 175K
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