How hard is it to replace these. They seem very pricy. I don't have my manual, but I tried unbolting them, they would not budge. Anything else involved?

I usually use ramps when working on non-wheel stuff. But found the ramps limiting as the shaft needs to be turned in order to get good whacks at the joint. So, stands would be the way to go.

As AyeRoll says, you have to knock the joint up the shaft until it clears the gear, then knock it out and down. I found the bar with the flat end, that comes with the wheel change tool kit, useful in levering up the joint (though a large screwdriver would also do).

Take a wire brush (and oil) to the splines before beginning with the hammer.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

Lots of beating, an inordinate amount of swearing. I've only done the lower one ($65 from FCP Groton).
Mine was worn out- totally loose. However it was quite difficult to loosen it from the shaft. The steering shaft goes WAY up inside the spline of the upper part of the lower joint. Likewise, the rack stub shaft goes well up into the lower part.
You have to get the locking bolts out first, which seemed tough enough, and then beat the bottom spline up off the rack, driving the upper one on deeper. Then when it finally clears (2 inches or so of driving it up the shaft) you reverse the process, driving the joint back down off the steering shaft.

Once everything was cleaned however, the new one slipped together like butter. Probably takes the cake for the filthiest job I've done- I guess there was a lot of PS fluid all over my rack. I was completely black halfway through the job.

Good luck, and bring your best 3-lb hammer.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 234K, '82 245T/M46-182K, '89 244DL/AW70- 212K Not too distant past: 86 244DL 215K, 87 244DL 239K, 88 744GLE 233K, 88 244GL 147K, 91 244 183K

An air impact chisel (using the blunt punch tool) does a fine job driving the u-joint up the steering column, and it does it fast...

Gotta be sure to remove those tiny cotter pins from the lock bolts. Usually they hide under the grease, and you shear 'em off as you loosen the bolts (as I learned...).

I agree. A filthy job.

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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Sorry to disagree, but I found this quite easy. The secret is to drive a very thin wedge lengthways down the split in each joint.. This opens up the grip on the splines, and lets in penetrating oil and allows the assembly to slide. Clean up the protruding splines with a fine wire brush first.
A big split wedge, such as you'd use for separating ball joints, plus a collection of spacers, is much better for shifting the splines than just hitting it hard.

Yeah, I did that, too. Used screwdrivers to spread each end open. Still, the original u-joint is usually well-corroded onto the steering column.

I've done three and not yet had your luck -- all three were both covered in layers of black greasy gunk and locked rock-solid on the column (must be the New England road salt).

As you did, I cleaned up the splines with a wire brush and also used PLENTY of never-seize grease when installing the new u-joint.

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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Drove my least-favorite screwdriver into the slot as well to spread it open, but it was still one of the nastiest repairs I've had to do in a long time.

Keep any kids clear of the repair so they can't hear you cursing.