The only part i can answer is the shims.. IPD rents a kit for that ,, it comes with shims and a removal tool,, check it out,, it does require a deposit..
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights.

The factory advises 45 on the seat and 44.5 degrees on the valve. I use 45 on both, and lap the valves to a final fit before adjusting them. I have done this for years on all red blocks, and have never had a come back.

Do you use Prussian Blue?
Where can I find dye penetrant to look for cracks?
Any tips for grinding valves unique to Volvos?
Where would I find valve spring shims if I have to grind valves and seats?

You can use Zyglo® and a black light to check for cracks. I'm not sure if this is easily obtained over-the-counter, but a machine shop should be able to do this for a reasonable fee.

I use bluing simply to confirm the seat to face contact before lapping. Crack checking I do by eye - mostly they occur from a valve seat across the fire ring area of the head, otherwise a machine shop can pressure test them. If there were no symptoms prior to dismantling the head, I don't worry about cracks.
The valve are quite straightforward, except that the turbo exhaust valves are stellite induction hardened, and Volvo says not to grind them. I don't, but I know some that do, and have not encountered any problems.
Shims are available to set spring height, but the problem is checking installed height within the spring pocket. Usually very little need be removed from the face and the seat, and the valve sinks less than .008 in when I do a grind, and that amount isn't worth worrying about. I grind the stem to adjust the valves before final assembly rather than buy new shims, so the amount I have to take off tells me how much the valve has sunk. Half the time I don't have to remove any stem material as the valve had a loose lash to begin with.

Rhys,

If I remember correctly, ALL of the exhaust valves on the B230F and B230FT engines are Stellite flashed (intake valves are not), -and what makes the Turbo vehicles different from the N/A vehicles is the valves are also hollowed out and filled with elemental Sodium for better heat conduction. Is my information wrong??? If so, I have several sevice manuals on my shelf that are in need of revision.

Have you successfully ground a Stellite coated valve before? I'm pretty sure that you'd destroy it, but I'm curious to hear about your experiences in this matter. I know Volvo advises using lapping compound, and that's about it.

Thanks for any information that you can offer. God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
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'87 Blue 240 Wagon, 248k miles.

Hi Fitz;
My green manuals indicate the turbo exhaust valve (sodium filled) are the only ones not to be re-ground. The regular exhaust valves can be.
I have only lapped them on to re-cut seats for customer engines, but I know one of my pals in the industry has re-ground them. He hasn't admitted any customers are unhappy....but then he might not to me anyways.
The stellite hardened depth is quite shallow, a matter of only a few thousands, and once that layer is removed, the valve probably behaves like a regular one in terms of face wear. If the turbo engine is not driven hard, I am sure even the re-ground one will stand up. In all the years I have been working on the OHC engines, I have never seen a burned valve, only badly bell-mouthed valve guides. The pushrod engines burned valves and recessed seats all the time.
Rhys