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i want to replace the in tank fuel pump on my 86 240 wagon and was wondering how difficult it is to do that. i have a breakdown manual but it doesn't describe the process at all. do i need to drop the tank etc? i live in an apartment so i would have to do it on a publice street that being the case i need to know what i need to do in advance to see if i can do this at home or if i have to find a friends house.
as long as i'm in that neighborhood i want to change out everything else that could be worn out on and 18+ year old car. i would imagine that would be the filter and it would probably be a good idea to replace the original fuel pump located outside of the tank too. anything else?
thanks
scott
86 240 wagon 147,000
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I'm sure the other posts have filled you in on the details. All I want to say is that you're so lucky you're doing this on a wagon. Pull out the second seat completely, clear everything else out of the rear, and spread out and do the job. In a sedan, you have work scrunched over the rear of the trunk -- very uncomfortable.
Oh, and get the proper "bung" wrench (e.g., from IPD) -- it's a lot easier.
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You don't need to remove the seat, just lean it forward and take out the screws holding down the floor in the rear. You might want to look at http://www.geocities.com/magicbus1974/volvo/tank2.htm as well. You do need to get under the car to disconnect the fuel line, as I think someone else mentioned. If you don't have Art's tool, you can do it with a big screwdriver and hammer. Hardest part is cleaning all the crud off the plate so it doesn't fall in the tank! Rust was not an issue on mine, however. Do be sure to change the filter, which won't be fun, either...
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Just a note on the "bung tool" in that photo of mine. There wasn't any planning behind it, other than a look at the FAQ drawing of a real one, and the need to loosen the nut with time to spare, at home. I just went looking through the tool collection for something about "that width" and after a couple minutes discovered that old Craftsman two-jaw puller.
Now, it won't be easy for you to find that same one, I suspect. I've looked at Sears and other places to replace it, unsuccessfully; its threads are a bit funky from long service.
Having done several in the boneyard (where I don't happen to have those wrenches and puller) I can say it makes a lot of difference how much corrosion you're dealing with. It pays to skip those where salty slush sat on them all winter and spring, but the screwdriver seems to be OK because the fumes aren't out until its loose anyway. But I never picked on a wagon, just sedans in the junkyard.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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You guys and your bung wrenches and screwdrivers and hammers... bah. Don't need any of that stuff, just two good size combo wrenches held together like an X, and one good twist. No hammering or crying or sparks or waiting for things to come in the mail. Get the whole job done in 45 min.
--
80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)
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You're funny though! I can see right past that tough-guy mask and you have me in stitches.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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Once again Art, you are correct, there were some that have been slightly corroded but nothing like where you live, I'll bet. I like your homebrewed tool but next time just for grins try my trick, you might be pleasantly suprised. I wrassled with a couple of em but once i got the knack of using the wrenches, it got kinda easy (no, I'm not referring to "return visits" either!). Yeah, i am pretty burly and i do indeed have to throw my weight and a lil anger into the removal process.
I don't know if you ignored or just plain didn't see my other thread, but I gave up on your current "name the mystery item" photo... WTF is that thing?
--
80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)
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So the mystery item is named (most fairly) by email response. I am surprised it lasted this long, and I know for a fact, through a post to the list, at least one has the answer.
You've got a deal. I will try your suggestion of the crossed wrenches next time I have a leisurely walk through the pick and pull.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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Art's posts a waste of bandwidth??? Never!!! But I do recall someone saying that the mystery item was a part from a [deleted] and your response that he should state that as the solution ... but without response. Were you looking for a model number?
(Hehehe, I think I've got the same puller tool, never occurred to me it could be used as a bung tool. What a clever idea.)
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Can't be sure I'd read every post that might identify the part, and I feel out-of-sync suggesting public response.
Thanks for kind comments. Looks like someone might be getting me looking for a new picture.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=838002&show_all=1
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i installed a new gasket ring & bung nut when i replaced my sender.
one volvo dealer prices were pretty cheap here in houston.
byron golden
86 245, 246k mi
92 245, 136k mi
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I just did my 82 and found out that the return line junction under the car is very fragile. I sprayed the junction with PBlaster and when I tried to loosen the joint the metal fuel line started to leak since it was rusted out. I replaced the line with fuel hose (5/16")by clamping it to the metal line back under the car where it was still good and running it to the sender unit. If you need more info check the achives under return line.
Mario
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The only things to change when you're "in the neighborhood" are the intank pump, the small gas line that attaches it to the assembly, and the filter sock. These three parts should come with the intank pump in a kit.
Don't worry about changing the main fuel pump until it actually gives you specific reason to do so. It's not exactly cheap, and lasts a good long time. But changing the fuel filter might not be a bad plan if you haven't in a long time, or don't know when it was changed last.
You can do the intank pump on the street; it's not that hard when you know how to undo the ring that holds the assembly in place. Once you see it you'll understand how it comes out; spray it with PBlaster if it looks dirty or corroded. And the special tool that you can buy pretty cheap makes it really simple. You can do it with or without gas in the tank; just make sure to put a rag or something in the hole that's big enough so that it won't fall in, so that no dirt falls into the hole. Make sure also that you disconnect the battery. Personally I don't think it's necessary to get under the car to release the fuel pressure. Just have a rag handy when you undo the fuel lines so that you can catch any gas that spills out.
Prepare to spend a lot of time wriggling the tank assembly out once you've removed the retaining ring. I don't think anybody has ever been able to explain it very well. It's just a lot of twisting and turning, and eventually it will come out. Putting it back in is also kind of a hassle in that respect, but none of it is technically difficult. Watch that you don't damage the wiring harness when you are shoving the thing back down in the hole.
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posted by
someone claiming to be 4volvos
on
Thu Oct 7 08:51 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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No you dont need to drop the gas tank. The pre pump is acessable from a square plate under the carpet on the left side of the trunk.There is a special tool that is reccommended for removal of the collar that retains the sending unit/pump but if your are careful you can use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap it out of its stops.You will also have to get under the car to loosen the pressure line.Its right above the panhard rod and you need a 17 and a 15 mm (I think those are the wrench sizes) to separate the fittings.The return line is removed at the top of the sending unit (a hose clamp with a phillips head screw). The only thing I have ever had brake is the ground tab on the top of the sender.Also be SURE to change the 3 inch piece of fuel line that joins the pump to the pipe on the sender.
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what is that ground tab for anyway. mine is broke. and the wire isnt hooked up. would that explain why my fuel guage reads a quarter of a tank when really its empty?
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