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$@## won't respond (at least not well) to throttle input and dies!
Also note that there is no clicking with throttle opening although the
throttle switch is good and clean. Just got that way over the past couple
days, before which it was running pretty well.
I suspect either a wiring problem, too lean a mixture or both.
Haven't got into serious diagnosis yet - everything LOOKS ok.
Meanwhile any ideas would be welcomed with open (if greasy) arms.
The 122 wagon did a good job of towing it using a chain and pipe over pretty
hilly terrain. Ben decided that that kind of driving is not much fun.
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
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Got a bunch of fine rust out of the filter and put on the new filter.
Fuel pressure now goes up and stays up and engine seems to be running
pretty well.
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
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Glad you got it fixed. Now you're ready for the next hick-up. BTW I wouldn't be ashamed at all being towed by an Amazon. A Ford Pinto on the other hand...
Kåre
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Good to hear the Yellow Peril is alive and well. Now, just imagine if you tore out the D-Jets and bolted on a pair of SUs and the problem still persisted.....
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and the bricks keep on rolling....
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Dat's what-all happens when you drive dem "modern" cars. Can't trust 'em new fangled vee-hick-les, always sumpin going wrong. Gimme a 60s 120 any ol day, easy as taken a wizz when the sun sa coming.
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Further diagnosis indeed did point some very pointy fingers.
Got the "no click" problem solved by putting in another throttle
position switch. Cranked it up and it was a bit better but still
faded and died. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and found that the
fuel pressure came up but went down quickly as the engine ran.
So I took off the gauge and ran the gas into an ice cream carton.
It was only about a 1/8" trickle at 0 psig. Obviously it would be
less at 28-30 psi. Pump sounds OK so maybe gorp has plugged our new
fuel filter. I found one like it at a yard sale for $2 that we plan to
put on as soon as the rain stops. (It was REALLY nice outside till it
started, 70°, overcast, slight breeze, etc)
Will keep you posted.
and NO, I do NOT plan to install any carbs.
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
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sounds like you gettin' it zero'd in... good to hear that, and glad you aren't going for carbs. The injection is much better when it works right. You're just a more patient man than myself...
'
Whats the odds of getting a Djet fuel pump at a garbage sale in Oklahoma I wonder...? Good score!
Cheers
-Matt
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-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
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I thought I did purty good gettin' a FILTER!!
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
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Will keep you posted.
and NO, I do NOT plan to install any carbs.
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
heh heh...I didn't think you would!
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and the bricks keep on rolling....
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The car does idle, so the main FI relay is working. The fuel pump is working. The injector trigger points are working. At least some of the ECU is working.
You have no clicks even though the TPS is clean, so there's one electrical problem. Acceleration would be a bit stumbley, but you'd still be able to drive home if that were the only problem.
It dies if the throttle opened, so that would suggest that the MAP sensor isn't sending a signal to the ECU (or that it's not getting there). Electrical problem number two.
Two simultaneous electrical problems are a bit much of a coincidence... what's common to them? Bad grounds? Fuses? ECU connector not making contact along its entire length?
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Phil, I have a question somewhat related to this topic. I've been hearing about those famous clicks for quite a while now on this board, and have not tried to listen for them on the actual car because the TPS seems to be doing its job and I have a propensity for causing things that worked well to stop doing so after I've fiddled with them. I pulled a TPS off a broken manifold the other day and opened it up to see what's inside -- turned out to be a pointer-like gizmo moving over a zig-zag printed circuit. What actually makes the clicking sound? The physical movement of the pointer over the circuit by itself is noiseless, at least, on this one it is.
Bob S.
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Hi Bob,
The clicks are the injectors firing. Every time the wiper hits one of the zig-zag contacts as the throttle opens, it causes the ECU to give the injectors an additional squirt -- D-jet's equivalent of an accelerator pump. The don't do it as the throttle closes; only when opening.
I'm with you -- if it's working, don't mess with it. The car will tell you if it's wrong.
--Phil
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Aaaaahhhhhh!!!!!!! (With a light bulb turning on.)
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I think we've got it down to the fuel supply with diving fuel pressure.
We'll see what it does with a new filter. (see my other post)
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
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I don't think there's any shame in towing it home yourself. I keep an old cast iron clamp-on towbar for that case. When I'm worried about reliability I throw a bicycle in the back.
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'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'
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Oh My GOSH George .... you have ruined your image as the Push rod engine GURU !!! Hmmmm guess I made the right decision to stay with SUs on Ole Reliable .... BTW Which FI did you install ? My daughter had a 145 that was injected and eventually had to be switched to carbs because the FI just would not run ....
Brett
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Brett Sutherland & the 1.5 million mile 122 CANADIAN www.ecvintagevolvo.com
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George, I know you're against it, but... after all that work and still not working right, I'd be turning some 1/2" nuts right quick and installing some good ol' su carbs.
If not, I hope you get her sorted soon!
-Matt
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-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
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