Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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New brake bits, Scantech ok? 200

I'm contemplating the dreaded S-word: Scantech. Tell me if I should forget about it.

Volvo parts are expensive in Australia, buying OEM is a bitch, $20 just for two wheel studs and a couple of lugnuts last time I had to buy anything through a Volvo supplier. I got quoted $AU137 ea for Solid front rotors, which seems a little high, given that they're a 3rd that from FCP, and would probably work out much cheaper, even allowing for shipping to Australia. I'll have a set sent as soon as I can afford it.

Which leaves the question of my calipers, I've got a left rear that drags a bit, and a left front which dragged enough to nearly put my car sideways on the freeway. (I do have an interim scrapyard caliper for the front, to keep my car drivable in the meantime)

Now it seems that if I'm getting rotors shipped, I could maybe grab some calipers while I'm at it, seeing as how I'm shelling out for expensive postage anyway.

There's not much point buying reco calipers from FCP, since I'd have to mail mine back to the states, which isn't a cheap way to go about things, but I do like the look of their prices on new Scantech calipers. Are Scantech comparable to Volvo OEMs?, If not I'll just have mine rebuilt here.


The other option that looks good is to buy through IPD, although the rotors are marginally more espensive. If I'm getting hardware shipped through them, I can get the parts to rebuild the calipers instead, is this an easy job for a reasonably competant home mechanic? I don't normally like to touch brakes, because if you stuff up, you don't get a second attempt. On the other hand the diagrams look simple enough, and I think I could do it.

I drive a Volvo because it has excelant discs all-round, and I compliment those with good Bridgestone rubber, (and new front struts as soon as I can get them). If Scantech are as good as the original girlings, then I'll fit them, but I'm not willing to take even a few feet off my stopping distance to save money. I keep thinking about the road safety ads on TV where they show how a few meters difference in braking distance can double the impact speed. I want the best brakes I can get, otherwise what's the point in driving Swedish?

--
Drive it like you hate it








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Aussie brake rotors 200

Euro Car Parts do Brembo rotors for around $70 each (maybe less). They have outlets in most capital cities. Phone 138800.








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more Aussie brake parts 200

Also try European Auto Imports (www.eai.net.au Ph 03 98902856) for calipers and such.
You could try Imparts too. www.imparts.com.au Ph 1300 721 217 (I think)








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more Aussie brake parts 200

Awesome, thanks Steve, the prices I'd been getting from brake shops were a whole lot higher than that. I'll give them a call.
--
Drive it like you hate it








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New brake bits, Scantech ok? 200

I would not assume for a minute that Scantech is as good as OEM Volvo. Nor would I assume that IPD parts are any better than FCP parts. Ask for brand names to go with the prices before deciding. And, especially in your case, shipping prices would be nice to know in advance.
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Thanks everyone for all the information and advice, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, B21F (non-Turbo), M46; 86 244, B230, 140k , auto.








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New brake bits, FCP groton ok? 200

"it turns out that I don't even have an 11mm spanner at all (got every other size from 8-19mm)."
I've used standard wrenches on the brake fittings. Try 5/16" (or was it 3/8"?) brake line spanners.

Don't you have any Pick and Pull auto wreckers around?
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans








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New brake bits, FCP groton ok? 200

Lol, that reply is going to make no sense to anyone else, because I edited my original post as you were replying to it, accidently deleting the reference to not having the correct sized wrench, which is why I jumped on an aeroplane instead and left the car in Sydney.


I did have an Imperial wrench that almost fitted, but I didn't have any flair spanners, so I was only grabbing two sides of the nut. The fit wasn't quite good enough that I wanted to put any real torque on it, I think I would have just destroyed the nut and made life more difficult for myself.

Yes I do have access to scrapyards, my car is built out of bits of at least a dozen old bricks. I have a spare caliper that I'm going to swap in as an interim measure, but I want the brakes in as good condition as they were in when the car left Goethenburg, preferably better through the use of new technology in brake lines and pads. I'm happy to drive it all over the state with a piece of coathanger powering my one functional (and I use that word loosely) fuel pump, but I will not cut corners on brakes and tyres.

Not that I don't love the yard, but I have had a few second hand parts die on me at inconveniant times (gone through a few alternators and starters in the last few months), and I want my brakes perfect.
--
Drive it like you hate it








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New brake bits, FCP groton ok? 200

Why take a chance with ScamTech bits?

Second. Buy an 11mm wrench of some sort, or use a 6pt socket. You don't want to go through any more calipers than necessary, right? So you mail order it from Sears, USA. You'd be out less than $20 for something that will last quite a while, and you can get unconditional free replacements for (plus the cost of shipping).

Or, if you're feeling cheap.. buy some off of eBay.

I like SK/Facom tools.. and given that Facom is not an American company, you may have better luck finding such bits down under. The downside is, of course, that they're more spendy than Craftsman branded stuff. There's a Snap-On 11mm combo wrench on eBay for $12 USD. How many of those could you get for the price and labor of replacing one caliper due to a borked bleeder screw?

--
alex







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