Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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M40 Transmission problem(s)! 120-130

Hello all again... as of a few days ago my tranny in my 67 220 became more diffcult to shift(especially 1st at a stop) and when shifting into reverse it sounds and feels like the gears are grinding and have to just sort of muscle it in there (I know not the best but its my daily and the only car I have). I noticed that the clutch pedal was behavin differently about 1-2 weeks ago it started to engauge later and sometimes I would have to push it all the way down as much as the carpet would let me to fully disengauge it (would rev high~1.5k rather than the 1k at idle) also there is about a 2in "deadzone" in the pedal which does nothing at all feels like its just free floating. So I am thinking it is the clutch, the fuild is good(not low or anything like that) I have not had the chance to check the oil in the tranny to see if there is anything suspious going on there or the slave cyclinder. The last time it was rebuilt (according to the orignal owner who I bought it off of) was about 200k mi ago, but the clutch master cyclinder had be replaced about 50k ago now (Ill have to check my records he gave me to see if the slave is in there as well, but at work so thatll have to wait). So I guess my ? is this is the clutch and I should order one from IPD or where ever and if I do end up doing that, what else should I replace while I have the bugger out? Ill probally be taking to a friends shop and putting it on a lift he has done tranny work before, not on a volvo (I have no tranny experience, but eager to learn and bust a couple of knuckles!). Should I replace all the seals bearing what? There seems to quite a few options or does my clutch just need some major adjusting? Also I would like to upgrade to M41 with the J overdrive (would be sooo much nicer on the freeway) what would I have to look for on do that is a bolt up match, do I need to have a differnet spindle or shorten the drive shaft? I remeber reading about it here (did a quick search before posting but couldnt find anything similar to my problem) saying somehting about the angle and that you need a differnt oil pan or something of the sort, oh btw it is a B18D motor..

Thanks VERY much in advance, just so wanna know what to expect somewhat when this happens and order parts so their there if I need them.

-Alan

edit: Also are there any volvo special tools that I should have on hand that will make my life easier?








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    M40 Transmission problem(s)! 120-130

    Like the others said re the clutch master and slave. Also if you have to keep driving it while it is not right, turn the engine off to shift into 1st and reverse, this stops the grinding and will save your gearbox. Also pumping the clutch (like brakes) can get you around for a bit if the master or slave is failling. Changing the clutch is easy, you don't need to order from ipd any decent auto supply store can get you clutch, throwout bearing and pilot bearing for this (i,m pretty sure it is the same spec as the 240 series, maybe not the throwout though?).
    As far as the o.d is concerned, generally the donor car will have all the bits you need, shortened driveshaft, x member, speedo connection with a right angle etc.. If not it gets a little more complicated, but any volvo with o.d. up to the 75 240 has most of the bits you need. No special tools needed, just the most special tool, a brain of sorts. Patrick.








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    M40 Transmission problem(s)! 120-130

    I'll bet you just need to adjust the clutch. The adjustment is on the rod that comes out of the rear of the slave cylinder. There's an adjuster nut and a second nut that jams against the adjuster to lock it. If the jamming nut comes loose, the adjuster will gradually back off, leading to exactly the symptoms you describe.

    Another possibility is that the throw-out bearing fork -- the thing the rod pushes against -- is cracking.








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    M40 Transmission problem(s)! 120-130

    first step would be to bleed the clutch hydraulics to be certain there's no air in there. Then adjust the clutch and see if it holds for a while.

    Could also be the release fork bending, but that is not likely on a 122...

    -matt
    --
    -Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC








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    M40 Transmission problem(s)! 120-130

    Before you assume you need to tear into the clutch, make sure that the clutch is disengaging fully. You might need to get under the car (engine off), and have a friend step on the clutch pedal. Notice how far the clutch slave cylinder push rod moves. If it only moves an inch or less, suspect a faulty clutch master cylinder, or air in the system. If the pushrod moves the full distance, you might have a bad pilot bearing.

    The symptoms you describe indicate a problem with not disengaging fully, which is almost never the clutch itself, unless the clutch disk is disintegrating.








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      M40 Transmission problem(s)! 120-130

      Hi,

      I mostly agree with those answers regarding "not fully working mastercylinder".

      Try to remove floorcarpet and check if mastercylinder is bleeding into the cockpit. It might sound strange, but I've seen it lots of times, -the mastercylinder is bleeding -VERY little is enough! -and the brakefluid in the system ruins the body-interior.

      As described by others, check out if slavecylinder is moving the "clutch" "enough" -if not:

      -absolutely no bleeding from the slave = problem in master.
      ->moist under carpet (up under/by the pedal-arrangement) and you're sure!

      -bleeding from slave = problem in slave.

      The bleeding and reduceing of function does not show big difference in the master's resovoir -the system is very fine-feeling.

      Problem IS master/slave -not clucth itself.

      Try: If you "pump" the clucth-pedal? -what happens?
      - Seems the pedal can be "pumped up"? -if so, problem is mastercyl.
      (Pumped up -like it feels that the "friction-point can be achieved at different pedal-level)

      I hope you get my english - I'm danish, so I've got an excuse! :-)

      /Soren








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        M40 Transmission problem(s)! 120-130

        First off I would like to say thanks for all the help, very much appericated.
        When I "pump" the clutch there is no noticable difference in the friction point. Ill check the adjustment nuts tonight. Thanks again!








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          M40 Transmission problem(s)! 120-130

          Hi

          My name is Claude I am from Montreal, I just bought a 1967 P220 last August. I have exactyy the same transmission problem. So I will also check the adjustment nuts.

          Thanks







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