I have a pretty good running B18 with about 120K on it. After I adjust the valves I want to put the timing light on it.
So, at ________RPM the light on the crank should read______.
The last couple of times I adjusted the timing without the motor running and just turned the distributor until the light on the electronic ignition box went on, after finding TDC of course. Couldn’t I just keep using that method? It seems to be running OK. Only once and a while I do get run on after turning the ignition off.
Thanks for your input

With the centrifugal advance in the distributor it's critical to set the engine timing when the engine rpm is low enough to prevent the advance from engaging.
Lower the idle to ~600-650 rpm and with timing light on cyl #1 look at where the point of engine rpm is when the advance starts to engage. It should be ~900-1100 rpm. Many people forget this effect and set the timing when the advance is partially engaged or when the advance mechanism is dirty & stuck or when the springs are worn out and it engages too early. Before you set it, pull out the breaker plate and clean out the weights and lubricate.
Set the timing at 18 degrees btdc when the engine is ~700 rpm and then raise the idle afterwards.
If the distributor has been replaced with a later aluminum body dist there's a good chance that the springs alow late engagement of the advance, and when you try to accelerate, the timing is not advanced enough, causing pinging. In this case you should replace the springs and get the advance to engage earlier.
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'89 245 Sportwagon, '04 V70 2.5T Sportwagon

......and when you try to accelerate, the timing is not advanced enough, causing pinging.
? By my reckoning, pinging is caused by having too much advance.
I've always done it by the method in the other post. Just enough advance to ping at 30 in top on a bit of a slope and then back a degree or two. One degree of rotation on the distributor = 2 degrees timing.

I just advance it until it pings very slightly, then back off slightly. Perhaps it's not scientific enough for some, but after possible rebuilds and wear resulting in different effective CR, and with differing local gas quality, altitude, and predominant air temps I think that method works better than some canned one-size-fits-all figure.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.