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power door locks / door switch problem 200 1990

Hi all,

Does anyone know if activating the door switch for a prolonged period (e.g., by keeping the key turned instead of letting it return to center) is supposed to send a single pulse or constant voltage to the door lock actuators? If I keep the key in the unlock position for longer than half a second the fuse will blow. I'm trying to figure out if that's the fault of the switch or the actuators. Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers,

-Lujo








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    power door locks / door switch problem 200 1990

    Thanks for your help. I'll start looking at the individual actuators to see if one of them is misbehaving. I've already disconnected the two for the rear doors so it's got to be one of the front ones.

    Cheers,

    -Lujo








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    power door locks / door switch problem 200 1990

    I beleive that is a normal circumstance.

    I fooled with a bad Drivers door actuator and after replacing a known-bad actuator with a new one, It popped the fuse when holding the stem up or down for a prolonged period
    --
    '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me








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      power door locks / door switch problem 200 1990

      Do you happen to know where the disconnects are for the door lock motors in the co-drivers's door and the tailgate? I had expected the ones for the rear doors to be in the doors but then found out they were in the B pillars. Car's outside and daylight doesn't last as long as it used to, so I'd love to avoid exploratory dismantling....

      Thanks,

      -Lujo








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        power door locks / door switch problem 200 1990

        ahh, tailgate... forgot about wagons. How are those wires in the hinges?








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          power door locks / door switch problem 200 1990

          Good point. The tailgate wiring *looks* perfect. Clean, no damage, no kinks. Of course, it could be rotted inside for all I know.

          The fuse blows both when using the key and when using the little plunger on the driver's door, which I interpret to mean that the driver's door actuators are OK, and that the problem is either in the wiring or in one of the motors.

          -Lujo








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            power door locks / door switch problem 200 1990

            I think you are right; its in the wiring most likely, and possibly an actuator that has filled with water, though I'd think that PTC "resettable fuse" would protect from that.

            From my '91 WDM, there's the tailgate harness connector on the RIGHT side, under the headliner, below the hinge. You could disconnect there to eliminate the t-gate short circuit suspect. The headliner is easy to deal with if you see it is just stretched over a lip in the corner.

            The actuator wires are blue and yellow; there's another connector supposedly, under the carpet, left of the tranny tunnel, just beneath the front console kickplate. I remember a number of connectors down there, so again, look for one with the blue and yellow wires. It should isolate the rear doors and the t-gate from the front door circuit.
            --
            Art Benstein near Baltimore








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    power door locks / door switch problem 200 1990

    In my (1983) factory diagrams the lock or unlock relays operate as long as the switch (knob or key) is held. Thus, they feed 12V to the individual door solenoids for that time. Fuse blowing may be a way of protecting the solenoids from damage. But blowing in just 1/2 second sounds like some further checking is needed.
    --
    Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)








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      power door locks / door switch problem 200 1990

      In addition to the fuse in the panel, each actuator has a Polyfuse (r) positive temperature coeficient thermistor - a disc wedged between two contacts. Someone replace one with a penny?







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