I finally got the engine wire harness replaced (1983 B23 244 DL, non-turbo) and now it won't crank -- as in all the lights come on, the "chime" dings, but not a glimmer of activity from the starter or solenoid. The lights don't even dim a bit when turning the key all the way to start.

There are two identical relays on the lead from the ECU (the unit next to the passenger's feet -- not sure that's the right name), and the one connected to the black plug clicks when the panel lights come on, but the other one doesn't (even if I swap them).

I've tried reseating most of the connectors, and I have 12V past the 25 amp blade fuse. Don't know where to look next ...

You've got it in park or neutral, right? You have power and ground to the starter? I know from experience (yes, my own) that occasionally the wiring harness takes out the starter, but make sure you have it hooked up correctly to the starter.

Let us know...

Chris

Try running your jumper wire from the positvie battery post to the remote start pigtail (black plastic connector on the end of a black wire hanging out of the harness at the firewall) and see if it will crank over (it won't start, ignition system is bypassed with remote start). This could help isolate the wiring problem or solenoid problem. jp

Hmmm, there's a black plastic connector on a BLUE wire just behind the main 8-wire connector at the firewall -- is that it? The Bentley manual mentions such a connector, but doesn't say where it's located, though the diagram shows it on a PINK wire. I'm just a little confused. If that's it, I'll give it a try tomorrow (as well as giving the solenoid a smart rap with a mallet, the only other likely solution I've seen in the archives ...)

Thanks again for all of the help ...

On both of my 83's with B23F engine, it is a single black wire with a black connector on the end. But, my Hayne's wiring diagram shows it as a blue wire with the connector titled "Power socket for running starter motor". Anyway, it is located by the automatic tranny dip stick at the firewall(if your's is automatic) and toward the driver's side from the eight pin grey connector. On mine, the pink wire is for checking the O2 sensor and the white wire with blue tracer is for shorting out the timing advance. Both of these wire terminal in a connector by the iginition coil. jp

There are 2 terminals on the starter you have the blue/yellow one on the wrong one.

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Dave Shannon
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>There are 2 terminals on the starter you have the blue/yellow one
>on the wrong one.

Hmm, I have it on the terminal closest to the fender. With a test lead on the other lug (same side, not the one closer to the engine). I do get power to the terminal with the key at start, so I assume I can rule out the switch in the auto tranny.

I'm pretty sure that's the same terminal it was on before, and that's what the directions say -- if I get wild and carefree and try it on the wrong terminal, are there likely to be unfortunate consequences?

Thanks everyone for suggestions!

By the way, my signature never seems to show up, even though I set one in the profile. What am I doing wrong with that?

What you can do is take the two wires off the starter and connect the blue yellow only to each terminal and see if the car cranks when you turn the key. When it cranks, connect the brown to the other terminal. The red wire should be on pin 30 which is on top of the starter. The other wires are on either side. Don't touch the red wire if it is on the correct terminal.

Mario

I did try the blue/yellow wire to the other terminal but still no joy. By the way, if I touch my test lead to the battery pos terminal, I get a nice spark, but no action at the solenoid. Sure sounds like the solenoid is the problem, but I can't see what I might have done to destroy it -- hadn't had any problems with it until now.

There are two identical relays on the lead from the ECU (the unit next to the passenger's feet -- not sure that's the right name), and the one connected to the black plug clicks when the panel lights come on, but the other one doesn't (even if I swap them).

Those are FI relays and operation sounds normal (as far as it goes). The outher relay doesn't activate until spark is detected while cranking. The 25 amp fuse is strictly FI related too. But you're not there yet.

I'd start by making sure there is a Blue/Yellow (I think) wire plugged tp terminal 50 on the starter solenoid. If it's there, test to see if it gets voltage with the Key in the cranking position.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

If the starter is not turning, check the wiring to the starter. On my 82 there is a blue-yellow wire to the starter that activates the internal solinod when the ignition switch turns to start. There should be 12 volts on that lead in the start position. Also the heavy red wire should be attached to the starter and a black ground wire.There is also a third brown wire that is connected to the ignition coil but only comes into play when the engine cranks. If you have an automatic make sure the car is in park since the 12 volts to the starter goes through that micro-switch. Hope that helps.

Mario