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Taking Engine Rebuilding Class - Need Advice 200 1990

posted by  someone claiming to be Volvo_Newbie on  Sat Oct 2 16:49 CST 2004 [RELATED]

I'm taking an engine rebuild class and found a sweet cylinder head from a junkyard Volvo B230F. The odometer was missing, seats have some wear (leather) and the brake and clutch pedal have lots of wear (suggests 200k miles to me). The right front fender and roof (yes the roof!) have big dents with windshield glass broken. The yard got the car on 6/2004. It failed smog in 2/2003. I presume it was in an accident and/or was a police impound. The headgasket is intact. No coolant in the oil and vice versa. I'd like to order parts in advance of the class (to save on rushed shipping costs). Someone told me that I would definitely need new valve guides and seals. I didn't even know that valves had guides and seals (that's why I'm taking the class :>). Any advice on what parts I should buy for this spare cylinder head, which will replace my Brick's cylinder head if/when it blows a headgasket? Oh, and any tips on storing the cylinder head long-term are greatly appreciated.







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    Taking Engine Rebuilding Class - Need Advice 200 1990

    posted by  walrus3 on  Sun Oct 3 08:22 CST 2004
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    last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
    [RELATED]

    Why don't you just get the whole engine?
    --
    George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US








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      Taking Engine Rebuilding Class - Need Advice 200 1990

      uid 17368's pic
      posted by  245L Van on  Wed Oct 6 05:30 CST 2004
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      last visit: Wed Nov 14 06:20 CST 2012
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      Firstly because removing a head is a whole lot easier than pulling the whole motor, and secondly because an Ovlov cast iron redblock is nigh indestructable. The chances of needing a new bottom end in your car's lifetime aren't all that high.

      My 245, on the other hand, does need a new bottom end, but as F*@ked old car's go, it's in a class of it's own.
      --
      Drive it like you hate it








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    Taking Engine Rebuilding Class - Need Advice 200 1990

    posted by  someone claiming to be 740ATL on  Sun Oct 3 00:40 CST 2004 [RELATED]

    Geez... why did you pick a volvo to rebuild? Are you independently wealthy?

    you could get a whole lot more $$ mileage out of rebuilding a small block chevy.

    If you just want to learn about rebuilding it, take one apart and use those parts.

    For long term storage, I've seen machinists coat them in a light oil and seal them up in big thick clear plastic bags.

    dunno if any of this helps.

    Mike








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      Is a Plastic Cover Good or Bad? 200 1990

      posted by  someone claiming to be Me Again on  Sun Oct 3 03:07 CST 2004 [RELATED]

      Plastic would protect against dust, dirt, and moisture, but wouldn't it also trap moisture?








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        Is a Plastic Cover Good or Bad? 200 1990

        posted by  someone claiming to be 240snowmobile on  Tue Oct 5 03:52 CST 2004 [RELATED]

        Assuming the part was completely dry to begin with, the only moisture in the bag is from the humidity in the air. So in a perfect world if the humidity never changed, bagging it would not provide any moisture benefit. However, if the part was not dried properly, then you are right and the part will stay wet for much longer and bagging will actually make things worse. If you see condensation inside the bag you know that is not a good sign.

        Where bagging can help is if the part is left in an upheated space (a shop or warehouse that is only heated during the day) where the humidity level rises and temperature drops below the dew point. If left unbagged condensation would more likely form on it, while inside a bag the humidity level is relatively constant. If you've ever had an uncovered bench vise or drill press table in a garage go rusty you've seen this action take place.

        To be extra safe you could even go one step further and enclose a pack of dessicant in the bag.







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    Taking Engine Rebuilding Class - Need Advice 200 1990

    posted by  Volvodad on  Sun Oct 3 00:31 CST 2004
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    last visit: Thu Oct 23 16:18 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    OE Volvo valve guides will be fairly expensive and the test to see if the originals need to be replaced is simple - you'll learn it in the class. Hold off until then. There are plenty of B21/23/230 engines with very high mileages which have never had head or gasket troubles. Your present head and engine may outlast the rest of the car, and you'll end up putting your spare on eBay.

    Buying new valve stem seals and the hushers (little rubber disks which are supposed to quieten things) would be a good idea and they're cheap. Installing them will give you some experience at disassembling the head without a lot of special tools. And these are the items your present head is more likely to need.

    Storage: I'd spray it lightly with WD40 and seal it up in plastic sheeting. Store in a dry place that doesn't get big temperature swings.
    --
    Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)







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