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The 1988 wagon I got for my son last winter has suddenly started developing the Wet Floor Disease. I have now removed the interior completely, front and rear, carpets and insulation are now taken inside to dry. With the garden hose placed on the roof, I placed myself on my back where the driver's seat used to be, lamp in hand. It seems that the water is entering the car through a leak in the lower left side corner of the windshield.
I realize (read: guess) that the proper fix is to have the windshield removed and reinstalled. Alternatively, to remove the trim and add new goop in the problem area.
But are there any shortcuts I can take for a not-so-proper fix? What I have in mind is to pry the trim away from the glass, and apply silicone through a thin nozzle. I'm thinking of using one of those hand pumps with a cartridge. If this is too optimistic, is it hard to remove and reinstall the windshield trim?
As always, comments and advice are highly appreciated.
Erling.
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My 240 Page
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In North America, 3M sells a product just for this. It comes in a tube, and you inject it under the rubber on both the glass side and chassis side of the windshield. It works very well, and the 242 my daughter drives has no more windshield leaks.
It is best to remove the windshield and remove any rust on the chassis, prime, and re-install the windshield.
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john
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I just went and bought something made by permatex (I don't know if you have it in Europe), but it is called flowable silicone window sealer or something like that. It has worked perfectly for the 3 weeks since I've used it. Sealed the leak right up and no problems. Just a thought...
Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/23mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/
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Thanks Nate, and my thanks also to the rest of you guys.
If Permatex is the Loctite product, I can get it here in Norway. Flowable sounds nice. Did you apply it with the trim in place? What I had in mind, was to use a putty knife or similar as a wedge between glass and trim and squeeze the stuff into the gap. Is that what you did?
Also, will the treated area need to be completely dry before the treatment?
Again thanks,
Erling.
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My 240 Page
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My experience with this was not so good. The wife's 89 came to us with an aftermarket windscreen replacement, done in polyurethane instead of the original butyl rubber. It leaked in the same spot. I removed the trim to find the leak, and of course, discovered the brittle trim clips were hopelessly embedded in that hardened urethane.
Before I read many admonitions against using acetic acid-curing RTV on rusting or bare steel, I tried the flowable RTV offered by Loctite/Permatex applied from the now well-exposed windscreen-pinchweld interface from the outside of the car. Aside from the possible corrosive effects, the stuff flowed right through the leak.
It dripped all over the fuse panel. Found it everywhere, just like the rain. And it didn't plug the leak!
Like John Sargent recommends, the urethane from 3M seems to be the correct viscosity to fill the voids, at least in this case. A learning experience for sure! Car still lacks the trim; we've not missed it. From a distance it looks more like the 91+ integral window seal-- if you squint and pretend.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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I did exactly what you are thinking about, and it stopped a leak over a year ago with no recurrences. I think you probably ought to also get the silicone in between the seal and the metal of the frame, as well as between the seal and the glass.
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There are urethane based sealers that IMHO are a better choice than silicone based. I also think that applying the sealer from the inside is better than outside. Then use a small flat plastic paddle to push the sealer into the area of the leak.
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1990 240 Sdn 277K,tach,strut brace,turbo sway 1990 240 Wgn M47II 157K,tach,strut brace,poly bushings,IPD sways,bilsteins
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With the windshield removed on a 240 you'll see a small hole at each lower corner where the glass is sealed. This is probably where your water is entering. Eventually these holes will rust. Not sure if you can access from underneath.
Because of leaking and rust, I chose to have a new windshield installed on my '84 this past summer. Previous owner had tried sealing with silicone. What a mess. The glass company pulled my old windshield and then came back after I had completed the rust repairs and installed a later year model for $235.00 Canadian. Well worth it.
Erich
Ottawa Canada
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Can you tell us how you made the rust repairs and what was used etc.?
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I chose to repair the rust myself and have a new later version glass installed. Found a glass company that would remove the old glass in my driveway so I would not have to drive home without one.
Start by sealing off the interior with plastic sheeting. Grind out the rusted areas. Seal holes with fibreglass cloth and resin. Apply filler, sand and contour. Prime with rust inhibitor primer and then paint. Rust on mine was found at the lower corners as well as along the top center. The old trim can trap a lot of dirt underneath.
If you plan to reuse your windshield take into consideration the amount of pitting it may have and added safety of a new one. Windshields are cheaper if it is not going through your insurance company. Most companies are not aware that the later windshields will fit but will welcome the easier install. And they look better too.
Erich
Ottawa Canada
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I have a similar problem with my 83 245--the rust and all. But I have a question... What is the difference of the later model windshield? Is it just the trim--does it look different?
Thanks.
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Charles
83 245DL 255k
87 245DL 405k
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The later windshield does not have the metal trim and associated clips. Black rubber trim only. Otherwise the same and will fit. Not sure of the years, 91-93, I think.
Erich
Ottawa, Canada
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