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The engine noise you refer to is piston slap, common to all Turbos due to shorter piston skirts. I've heard a reference to using a motor treatment called "RESTORE" that can quiet the engines. I've never tried it, and not been a fan of "snake oil" type miracle products- but the guy recommending this, I believe. The idea was that the noise might be caused by sticking piston wrist pins (the pivot at the top of each connecting rod). This product might free them up. Who knows, it may make a difference. DOn't know about compatibility with synthetic oils, etc. I am not a big fan of synthetics for regular engines, but I do think that Turbos benifit from an oil that basically won't burn.
Anyway- not an uncommon issue, and not really a problem, though it would be good to know something about the car's history- this tends to become pronounced after overheating. If the previous owner says it "needed a head gasket one time" it probably was overheated and that's why it's noisy now. It'll most likely run like that for a long long time.
Struts on all these cars require removal at least beyond the fender well. Whether you can leave the ball joint attached is up to you in disassembly. The upper bolts drop the whole strut out, then you need a spring compressor to hold the spring while you remove the top nut, spring perch and upper strut bearing. See the FAQ and your Haynes manual for more info. The book covering the -88 cars or the UK version for later ones correctly cover struts for a 92. It's serious work for a professional- if you've never done it, you'll need to make a pretty hefty investment in tools to do the job at all. Remember safety is the key with work around springs and struts- you can get hurt easily.
The antenna most likely just needs a replacement mast. They run $20-$50 depending on source. See www.fcpgroton.com for stuff like this. Make sure the antenna switch on dash (the Y switch) is on and radio is on. Have someone switch the switch and see if you hear the motor under the left rear floor. IF it runs, you'll be able to unthread the old one and thread in a new one. It may take a couple tries, be patient and don't force anything. Also be careful of the outer brass tube clip inside the top of the fixed part of the tube. You need it for the new mast.
Good luck with your new Brick!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 230K, 88 744GLE- 220K, 82 245T-181K Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 87 244DL, 239K, 94 855GLT 189K
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