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Part-time rattle in the front suspension 200 1993

When driving over some kinds of bumps or bumpy roads, the front end on my '93 240 wagon makes a great rattling. Other bumps, no problems. A brick paved road (we still have one in town) or some potholes will cause the rattling at a speed of 25-40 mph.

On most streets or at highway speeds the ride is smooth.

I have had three mechanics look at this and I'm just about stumped:
- The dealer looked at it, thought it was an inner tie rod end, but when I took it in for repair, they said, no, it's the ball joint and so I had them replace that. No fix.
- My previous regular mechanic could not find any problem in a test drive.
- My new mechanic could not find any suspension problem but found one side wheel bearing loose and tightened it. While driving me to work in my car, his mechanic thought it might be a stuck shock.

Here is the setup:
- Strut inserts installed 17,358 miles back - unknown brand, could be Monro or some other standard brand. Mechanic claimed they are gas shocks, but could not tell me the brand. (one reason among many that he is no longer my mechanic)
- Rear shocks more recent - Sachs (Boge) Pro-gas installed by me.
- Sway bar upgrade - front 23mm, rear still 16mm (long story - I'm looking for a 19mm rear sway bar to get the right balance)

Any suggestions? I am contemplating replacing the strut inserts with Boge Turbo-gas but that's not inexpensive.
--
'93 245, '96 850








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    Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll check things out this weekend.

    The car has about 138k miles on it. I don't think it's the rack; it's been checked by two shops, and there is no discernable play when I grab each tire and try to make it move.

    My new shop checked all of the bushings and the front were all good. (I trust these guys - they rebuild classic cars and the shop has some pretty neat vehicles: a Lotus, 1932 Marmon completely rebuilt, Jaguars, Porsche, a 1970 MGB that made me pine for my mis-spent youth, and more.)

    Can't make it rattle by rocking the bumper, but I'll look at the strut nuts, the sway bar brackets (which have recent IPD poly bushings)

    I had the rear control arm bushings replaced last year, but I'll look there anyway.
    --
    '93 245, '96 850



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    I had a rear lower control arm bushing (Left side) that was wandering in and out. This was a bushing that had been replaced. I got a different bracket from the bone yard and had another new bushing pressed in. No problem since.

    The noise was intermittent but since it was the left side I could feel it under my left foot.



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    If you sit on the front fender and rock it up and down can you replicate the rattle? I took the cap off my strut and rocked it up and down. I could see the strut nut come off the seat and hit it on the way down. I put three strut washers on it and put the nut back on. My two year rattle is gone. If I could only get rid of teh back hatch rattle.
    --
    Simon 80 240 300k 17 years. 'White Lightning'



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      A few things to check:

      1. Pull down the corner of the headliner at each hinge. Look up and find the hinge bolt. Check for tightness (this bolt tends to work loose). Your noise could be coming either from the hinge assembly or from a slumping tailgate touching the car frame.

      2. Pop off the interior panel on the tailgate. Check the lock linkage for slop.

      3. Check the alignment and snug fit (or not) of the latch. Easy way to check: wrap one or two turns of electrical tape around the strike. If that cures the rattle, then the problem is wear between the latch and the strike. You can replace the strike or even just the rubber mounts (which would change the mounting height of the strike and maybe take care of the noise.)

      4. The tail gate has little stabilizing bumpers on each side at the frame. Have these gotten tired (and shrunk) with age?

      On my 1980 I've done all these at different times to keep the tailgate (more or less) quiet.

      Good luck.

      Doug Harvey



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        What great advise! I replaced the strike. I put weather stripping around the whole door. It helped but it is still there. I'll try the tape as I think it has to be the linkage. I've had the linkage off but can't see how to tighten it up. It sounds like a crazed person playing the spoons back there!!










        --
        Simon 80 240 300k 17 years. 'White Lightning'



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          "I've had the linkage off but can't see how to tighten it up."


          S--

          I was pondering that problem myself when the 1992 wagon came into my life and I've just never gotten around to doing this job on the 1980.

          What I was about to try was wrapping elec tape and/or plastic pull ties around the links. If you don't bind them up so tight that they can't pivot, that might damp out rattles.

          Good luck.

          Doug Harvey



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    Has anyone checked the torque of the lower A arm bushing bracket fasteners ? They set up an terrible racket on my '89 if they are loose, specially on a cobble road.



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    C--

    At one time or another in over 350k driving 240s, I've had front rattles from work brake pads, struts, main suspension bushings (almost-new IPDs; shop said they had been on the shelf too long and were starting to dry out and shrink), worn/loose wheel bearings, and sway bar (check your rubber inserts in the pedestals).

    AND-- (I've got this right now and am just living with it) the steering rack. The end bushings on mine are worn enough at 213k that it clunks from time to time, but doesn't leak.

    Good luck.

    Doug Harvey



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    I've got a similar rattle in the front end that you can also feel. Just replaced both tie rod ends, both ball joints, all new sway bar bushings and links, lower control arm rear bushings. I am planning to change the strut inserts but not without replacing the upper strut bearings as well. (I was hoping to put off the shocks for a while but the rattle will push that job up soon.)
    You didn't say how many miles overall. Mine has 200K so it was all bad. Strut bearings are the most likely culprit. I've had them fail on other MacPherson strut cars.

    Dan Kretzer



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    I purchased a used 93 with 147K last Dec. It now has about 157K on it. Thought I'd respond to your post because my front end was just checked over by a very reputable shop. They replaced the left inner tie rod end and gave the steering and suspension a clean bill of health. However, when I spoke to the mechanic he indicated that he thought the brake hardware needed replacement. I note that the invoice reads " Note: Calipers rattling". Since the inner tie rod was replaced, I have recently replaced the front hardware, but I failed to check out the pads and I wonder if the pads(on the car from the PO) have too much play between the slots and the pins and maybe that's the problem. The rattling over bumps is still there.
    If you find out anything, pass it on in this post. You might check you hardware, however.



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    Well, you've had a lot of work recently that would be suspect.
    I would check bushings, both suspension and sway bar.
    Check cross bar and other suspension fasteners for proper tightness.
    Next, I would suspect the struts (I've had poor quality boge turbo gas that rattled after 1 year) I like Sachs better.
    Check the strut tube nut for tightness as well as the top strut nut.
    Finally, I've had the large bushing housing get egg shaped, allowing the larger bushing to rattle.

    Good Luck

    Tom



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