Well, it used to be that I was the LAST owner of most of my cars. However the Volvos are proving to be too good for that, so they get shared and passed down in the family.

The 82 245GLT Turbo Wagon is now my wifes car. It's registered, and running great. There is one little problem, however (see below).

Her 88 744GLE, that we bought a little over 4 years ago with 159K, now has 233K. It's been to Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, PEI, Maine (many times), VT (several times including the annual VCOA shows), upstate NY a bunch, CLeveland a couple times, VA Beach more times than I can count. Never once been towed.
We sold it to her brother's girlfriend, and as with a couple others I sold, they rent from us, so the car stayed put- only the registration changed. In fact, it's already been pulled over because the reg didn't match (CT's transfers take up to a month to go through the system. Dumb, huh?) Anyway the important thing here is that the girlfriend's Omni left, for $100, to a guy down the street. A great deal too since we were thinking about giving it away.

Now for the major outstanding annoying issue with the Turbovagen, the ignition switch is broken. The finger on the back end of the lock cylinder is snapped off. I gotta start it with a screwdriver, as well as using the key to unlock the wheel. My wife is only mildly entertained by hotwiring her car every day, so I will be fixing it ASAP. I see how everything comes apart, I think, and have a new ignition switch complete. However I can't get the security bolts out of the column to free the lock from the column. I've been told a few different approaches. What do you think?
I've been told to cut the housing with a grinder and split it off since it's junk anyway. I've been told the black steel crossmember under the dash comes off the column piece, but I thought I had all the screws out of that, and it didn't. This piece shrouds the security bolts to prevent access with heavy artillery. I've broken a few drill bits trying to come in to the bolts from below, and it's a place that induces muscle cramps besides, not to mention chips in the eyes.
Any ideas to simplify this will be welcome. I just had the whole dash out of it and I'd like to not repeat that adventure... Thanks in advance.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 230K, 88 744GLE- 220K, 82 245T-181K Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 87 244DL, 239K, 94 855GLT 189K

Why not just change the lock barrels over.

There should be a small,(about 1/8" diameter) pin in the side of the lock body.

With the key in position 1 or 2 (I forget which) the pin can be pushed inwards with a small punch, the lock barrel should then just pull out rearwards.

Colin.

1990 740SE B200E/M47, remote C/Locking.

i thought this is what he was trying to do in my post lol.

Why not just change the lock barrels over.

There should be a small,(about 1/8" diameter) pin in the side of the lock body.

With the key in position 1 or 2 (I forget which) the pin can be pushed inwards with a small punch, the lock barrel should then just pull out rearwards.

Colin.

1990 740SE B200E/M47, remote C/Locking.

Yeah, I may change out the lock cylinder. I looked for a pin, and there is one tiny hole, I'd guess smaller than 1/16 on these. Didn't look too promising. I'd like to keep the original keying but that's not critical.
The real problem is that the finger that the lock cylinder actually turns on the back (forward, as installed) end of the assembly, the finger that turns the electrical part of the ignition switch, is snapped off. So either way, I think the whole assembly has to come out for that repair.

Thanks all for the help.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 230K, 88 744GLE- 220K, 82 245T-181K Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 87 244DL, 239K, 94 855GLT 189K

i removed the lock from my 89 745 by vise grip's, i have the needle nose type laying around, i locked them on there as tight as i could at an angle and turned it loose enough to get something else on there and turned it right out, i only removed the front one, once i was ready to remove the lock i took a flat head and gently pried apart the section there just enough to relive the pressure ( carefull to much prying will break it off ) push the button in and it should slide out, though it may be a pain to get it out with the metal brackets surrounding it.

It is actually very easy to remove the complete steering column if needed. Sure makes it easy to work on the lock. However if I remember right you can access the screws anyway. The screws have a smooth head to prevent unscrewing. Hit the screw head with a centerpunch on the perimeter in the direction to unscrew. It usually works. Use regular bolts for reassembly.

Thanks, I will try that. The darn things have so far defied my efforts to hit them with anything....
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 230K, 88 744GLE- 220K, 82 245T-181K Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 87 244DL, 239K, 94 855GLT 189K