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The 2.0 is a bit different than the 2.2 regarding that test point on the pink wire. The LED tool as described for LH2.2 won't work directly with your LH2.0 ECU. The way you did it is fine, but you'd probably prefer to see the blinking LED over the flashing numbers to get the duty cycle even, and dwell meters don't actually measure dwell at this low rate, equivalent to maybe 30 rpm.
You can add a buffer transistor to the LED tool to use on the LH2.0 test point. It is not really the O2 sensor directly, but after the ECU's comparator cleans up the sensor's output. But its logic level is low impedance, (NMOS output through a resistor) it is not low enough to operate the LED directly. A general purpose NPN switch transistor, e.g. 2N3904, wired emitter to ground, base to the pink test point, collector to LED and current limiting resistor to +12.
But I think your method of finding the center point is plenty accurate for mixture.
The K-jet test point is not the lambda output directly, or even its comparator output, it is a pulse-width modulated voltage used to develop the "frequency valve" output, similar to a pulsed injector controlling fuel flow. The rate is well within the range a standard ignition dwell meter can accurately measure. So the dwell meter is a good tool to read the duty cycle of this signal.
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