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Replacing round pug at back of head. What is rear cam cap. 200 1990

posted by  Mark Lundell on  Mon Sep 20 03:00 CST 2004
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last visit: Sun Sep 14 21:34 CST 2014
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It looks like the round plug at the back of the head is leaking. In an earlier post a brickboarder talked about removing the valve cover and the rear cam cap to make the job easier. What is the rear cam cap, and how does it come off? Does it require additional seals or gaskets?

Thanks for your advice.

This forum has saved me hours of frustration.

Mark








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    Thanks all! 200 1990

    posted by  Mark Lundell on  Mon Sep 20 05:57 CST 2004
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    last visit: Sun Sep 14 21:34 CST 2014
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    Thanks for the advice and know-how. I did the blow test on the flame-trap and had lots of air flow after I removed the oil filler cap. Trap itself was in great shape (I run Mobile 1 inspite of the additional oil seepage).

    Mark








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    Replacing round pug at back of head. What is rear cam cap. 200 1990

    posted by  Volvos4me4ever on  Mon Sep 20 04:57 CST 2004
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    last visit: Fri Mar 23 07:32 CST 2007
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    You may just have a clogged up flame arrestor. That's what Volvo uses instead of a PCV valve that most other cars have. The flame arrestor is on a vaccume line at the back of the intake manifold and can be cleaned or replaced. If it's clogged it will build up crankcase pressure and cause oil leaks. My 89 245 had this happen and the cam plug popped out! Had a major oil leak then. Was able to get a new plug and put it in with a flat bar without removing the valve cover.

    Good Luck...
    --
    Volvos4me4ever 1989 245 272K miles still going strong








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    Replacing round pug at back of head. What is rear cam cap. 200 1990

    posted by  unggthat on  Mon Sep 20 03:13 CST 2004
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    This job will be a lot easier if you DO take off the valve cover and rear cam cap. You will need a valve cover gasket as well, as I'm sure it will rip in the process of taking the valve cover off. It is a very straightforward procedure. First, take off the valve cover (I think ten 10mm acorn nuts) to expose the camshaft and cam bearings(caps). There are five bearings with 2 12mm(I think) nuts on each. The very last one in the back is what you want to remove. Undo the two nuts on top and carefully pull/pry it off and you will see the rear plug either still on the head or wedged into the cam bearing. Simply put the new plug into place, maybe with a bit of silicone gasket maker around the edges, and tighten the cam bearing back down. IT DOESN'T NEED TO BE VERY TIGHT AT ALL. I think the spec is around 14ft/lbs. Then put your niftly new valve cover gasket on, then valve cover, and you're all set to go. It will really be easier than you think it might....probably take no more than 1/2 hour, and that would be pushing it. Good luck in the quest for no leaks!

    Nate Gundy
    --
    '86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/23mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/







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