Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Got myself a new 122... 120-130

Hey all...
I added one more to my fleet. It's a 122S don't know what year, it's got the early idler-arm (bushing) and bench seat...(used to have column-shift...) Everything is still intact. The rims got widened. Looks lovely... I'll upload some pics and post them here.

But there are some problems...
- The clutch travels very slow... I suspect a swollen shut flew-line.
- The rear-end is very noisy most of the time, but not load dependent...I suspect bad bearings... (but if it's a bad diff, I'll have to replace the whole axle with one from a 144 or from a 1981 mitsubishi stalion- I've done this with my other 122S, but I'd rather not.)
Cheers!








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    Got myself a new 122... 120-130

    Anthony,

    Great looking car. Perhaps you can solve one of the great mysteries of life for me. Why do people black out the license plate number in auto photos? It seems to be a universal thing as I have noticed this in many different countries. Therefore there must be a good reason for it and I'd like to know what it is.

    Thanks for your help.
    Jerry
    1969 123GT








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      Got myself a new 122... 120-130

      Hehe... well, here in Thailand. If one has a plate number, they can track you down real easily. (Just call up the transportation department and they will tell you everything.)
      So if you go to a Thai website, you usually don't find cars with plate numbers. BTW, I'm half German...hehe.








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    Got myself a new 122... 120-130

    before deciding that the dif is blown consider it may just be the suspension bushings, when very worn they transfer a bunch of noise to your chassis, noise you are never supposed to hear. I "fixed" a bad tranny once by just changing a suspension mount, same with the rear of a volvo.








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    Got myself a new 122... 120-130

    That column shift means it was an automatic, and I have never seen an autobox 122 newer than 1966. A noisy diff means a bad bearing, and it will take more than a oil change to fix it. pull the axles out first.








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      Got myself a new 122... 120-130

      It's originally a manual. I'm talking to the PO of finding all the old bits back so I can convert it back to a column shift. He said that there was some problems with the linkage and the cover of the transmission, so he put a cover of a normal m40 in. I'd be lovely.








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        Got myself a new 122... 120-130

        Are you in the US? I'm guessing not, and that the column shift was not sent over here...?

        pictures!

        -Matt
        --
        -Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC








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          Got myself a new 122... 120-130

          From what I asked the local Volvo parts place, he says there a couple column shift cars around in Thailand.



          I'll take come pics of the parts and some of the linkage left over tomorrow...(forgot today...hehe.)








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            Got myself a new 122... 120-130

            Very cool...
            You mentioned you don't know the year... Can't zero that in exactly from the pictures, but from the trunk latch, window and door handles, and tail lights, dash pad that wraps to the doors, I'd say '63 or '64.

            Do the small triangle windows in the rear doors open? If so, it could be earlier and have had the rear lights changed. Is it a B16, or B18?

            '62 should have a B18, but still no backup lights. '64 is the last year for your trunk latch.

            -Matt
            --
            -Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC








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      Got myself a new 122... 120-130

      Definitely a likely possibility that it was an auto originally, but I have heard of column stick shifts with bench seats. As I said, I've never seen one. Easy to tell by the tranny tunnel, or tranny crossmember mounts.

      Noisy diff can surely mean a bad bearing, which is usually the case. Or bad gears. But if its empty of fluid and has been sitting a while, some good old gear lube can work wonders.

      Or it could well be in the suspension, driveshaft, transmission...etc. Real hard to tell sometimes. Especially from a computer monitor. Always best though to do the easy stuff first.

      I have a '68 122 with an auto... they made 'em to the end I reckon.

      -Matt
      --
      -Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC








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    Got myself a new 122... 120-130

    Sounds interesting... Column stick shift and a bench seat...? I've heard of that, but never seen it, and was skeptical. Would love to see pics.

    As for the rear end... obviously start by checking/changing fluid...

    And doing the same with the clutch hydraulic fluid might cure that as well...

    -Matt
    --
    -Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC








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      Got myself a new 122... 120-130

      Humm... the column shift has been removed, but there are still some parts attached to the car... A real shame.
      As for the bench seat, it's a real nice thing. (except for having the extra long shifter in the way.) I'll take some pics in the morning.

      BTW, would you know the width of a 122 rear axle and one of a 144?








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        Got myself a new 122... 120-130

        Were I you, I'd *try* to find a rear axle out of an 1800E or ES. That gets you the disc brakes, and is the correct width. Yours being a '66, you'd still have to do some mount fabrication though. You'll need to get the stuff between the ball joints off the 1800 too, as the bolt pattern ain't the same... but I'm sure you already know that.

        Track for a 122 should be 51.8", 140 should be 53.1 or so... so it'd probably work fine... only 3/4" on either side.

        -Matt
        --
        -Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC








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      Got myself a new 122... 120-130

      All right! looking forward to seeing pics.
      Suspect if clutch difficult then brakes not far behind. Popping for all new flex-lines right off the bat will be money well spent, even it it turned out to not be the real issue!
      Bearing noise usually changes in tone with speed and when cornering. Diff noise usually changes in tone depending on power being put through it (differs from accel to coast to decel).
      A decent drive-line/axle shop should be able to rebuild or re-adjust your axle if it is not toast... If you take it in before it siezes! (how could I know that?)

      Mike!







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