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Problems after new harness installation 200 1981

I'm totally baffled and hope someone can help.

My 81 240 GL died due a shorted harness. Temp gauge
when full hot, motor would spin, but not start.

Replaced harness with new temp sensors as you suggest.

Car started, but quit due to blown fuel pump fuse.

Replaced fuse and when key switched to on position, the
car started and ran but with starter still engaged. Pulled
battery cable to stop.

Checked BrickBoard and found that the CPR terminals may
need reversing for my year model. Resistance across
CPR terminals is 14 ohms, but neither terminal is grounded
as was suggested by the BrickBoard posting. Old harness
and new both have black wire in the same place.

Pulled fuel pump relay and jumpered terminals 30 and 87
to get fuel pump to run with CPR disconnected. Car started
and ran for a while, but the jumper wire got hot and car
quit.

Reconnected everything as before and left CPR disconnected
and car started when key turned to on position with starter staying
engaged.

Double checked my harness connections with Haynes
wiring diagram and all are correct.

Original, blown fuel pump fuse was too small, new one is
the correct 16A and has not blown.

Questions:

1. Should CPR have one terminal that is grounded to the case?

2. Can these be repaired if not?

3. Can a bad ignition or fuel pump relay keep the starter
engaged? If so, which one?

Very grateful for any insight.

Andy --








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Problems after new harness installation 200 1981









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Problems after new harness installation 200 1981









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Problems after new harness installation 200 1981









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Problems after new harness installation 200 1981

Starter Motor Connections:

Yellow/Blue wire with female connector to Fender side connector on starter.

Brown wires with female connector to Engine side connector on starter.

Also be sure that your ground leads, bolted to the top of the intake manifold, are secure.


--
don hodgdon '89 744ti, '81 242t, '71 D-35








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Problems after new harness installation 200 1981

If the starter is staying engaged,the solenoid is getting 12 volts all the time.As I recall there are three wires at the solenoid on your 240,two are brown and the other is yellow with a blue tracer (I believe).At any rate the brown wires are NOT the wires that engage the starter solenoid from the ignition switch. The brown wires go on the solenoid terminal closest to the engine block and are a 12 volt feed once the engine starts.As I recall they are pretty difficult to get to. Your car does not have any kind of starter or ignition relay and the fuel pump relay recognizes the secondary signal from the coil to energize it to turn on the pumps and provide 12 volts to thr c.p.r. ect. No the c.p.r. is not directly grounded to the case,it eventually grounds at the intake manifold thru the harness.Make sure that you did not mistakenly bend the connector that carries the brown wires so it touches the battery lead








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Problems after new harness installation 200 1981

Thanks for the punch list on my problem:

1. Yes, the starter solenoid wires are properly installed
2. No, the brown wire is not touching 12 volts
3. Yes, the harness is properly grounded to the manifold
4. Understand that neither of the two CPR leads are grounded to the case

When I pull the fuel pump relay fuse, the starter engages properly
and the car will briefly start.

With the fuel pump relay out and jumper wire the starter will engage
properly and the car will start and run.

This car has a large black cased ignition relay and a smaller green
cased fuel pump relay both located under the driver's side dash.

With the CPR OK - I am suspecting one or both of these relays?

Is is possible that the fuel pump relay is feeding 12 volts into
the ignition relay which explains why the car starts when the key
is turned just to the "ON" position?

Many thanks!!!

Andy --







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