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Air Box Thermostat 200 1993

posted by  Oleseahorse on  Wed Sep 8 08:27 CST 2004
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 11:45 CST 2014
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It took me a long time, and some help to figure out that my AMM was bad which led to a poor idle. Now that I've gotten a replacement AMM I learned that it would be wise to replace the air box thermostat. Now that the air box is lying on my work bench,and a new thermostat came in the mail today, I cannot figuure out how the darn thing (or assembly) comes off/apart. I'm afraid to yank on it, cause the assembly is made of plastic. Secondly, in looking at the Bentley book, it says to check the operation of the thermostat at different temperatures which range from about 40 to 60 deg. F. So I ran the new one under the kitchen sink with a tape measure against the operating rod and couldn't detect any movement. I'm going to do battle with this later tonite, so any help would be greatly appreciated. I must be missing something. TIA

Marty Wolfson







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    Air Box Thermostat 200 1993

    posted by  Oleseahorse on  Wed Sep 8 12:30 CST 2004
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 11:45 CST 2014
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    Stupid me. The thermostat assembly easily comes out if you only take a careful look at how the plastic assembly is fitted to the airbox. Plus I discovered that you can apply an icecube to the thermostat to check to see if it will properly open the preheat air shutter. Alternately, you can then use the heat from your fingers applied to the body of the thermostat to see if it then closes the shutter. Before I put everything back together, I applied a little oil on anything that moved.
    Since I first posted, I noticed many people have recommended wiring closed the shutter to ensure protection of the AMM, which also might not be a bad idea.
    Sometimes I post too fast looking for help. Regards to you bricksters.
    Marty Wolfson








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      Air Box Thermostat 200 1993

      posted by  TONY H on  Thu Sep 9 04:05 CST 2004
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      last visit: Fri Oct 17 16:39 CST 2014
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      I looked at it for a bit before I realized that you can easily pinch the plastic together and it almost falls out at you.

      Like many, I canned the whole deal. Took it out all together. Took off the Metalic heater house that wraps around the front of the car and always cracks where it slides into the Exhaust manifold. Two 12mm bolts and the small bracket on the exhaust manifold came off. No one's the wiser and now Cool air runs into the airbox from the original inlet and this one. They are both on the correct side of the Air filter so, No-Foul.
      I never have to question the T Stat and whether it is beating up my AMM.
      --
      '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me








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        Air Box Thermostat 200 1993

        posted by  richark on  Fri Sep 10 06:19 CST 2004
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        last visit: Mon Feb 7 06:55 CST 2011
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        after i removed the exhaust manifold bracket on mine i bent back the sheet metal between the radiator and the back side of the passenger side headlight - basically opposite side as the airbox inlet - so that now i have external air coming in and cooling off the exhaust side of the engine and it can flow down to cool off the tranny and tranny lines as well
        --
        big rich in arkansas '62 544 132K, 85 244 210K, 95 855 105K








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    Air Box Thermostat 200 1993

    posted by  Trev29 on  Wed Sep 8 10:17 CST 2004
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    last visit: Fri Oct 17 05:56 CST 2014
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    A lot of people have shut the air intake flap (defeating the purpose of thermostat) in order to protect their AMM. If the thermostat fails to close the flap, the AMM overheats and gets destroyed.
    --
    1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans








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      Air Box Thermostat 200 1993

      posted by  FitzFitzgerald on  Wed Sep 8 13:20 CST 2004
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      last visit: Wed Jun 25 23:15 CST 2014
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      If I'm working on somebody's vehicle where they are either not mechanically inclined or they are completely dependent on a mechanic to fix or inspect anything, -I disable the thermostat if the existing one is dead. I discovered some of the 3" lumber nails I have at home have the exact same shaft diamater as the Thermostat's plunger. I extract the plunger with a pair of pliers and cut a nail to proper length (so that it's long enough to stay in the "always-cold" mode).

      I hate to disable an emissions device on a vehicle, but if the thermostat was was dead to begin with, I'm keeping the AMM alive and ultimately reducing cumulative emissions.

      God bless,
      Fitz Fitzgerald.
      --
      '87 Blue 240 Wagon, 246k miles.








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        Air Box Thermostat 200 1993

        posted by  Propeller Head on  Wed Sep 8 15:03 CST 2004
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        last visit: Sun Sep 28 08:50 CST 2014
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        Great idea about holding the valve in the cold position. I removed the valve and heat tube in both my 240s, 87 & 90 because our climate (middle of NC) doesn't warrant preheated air. I was burned a couple mos. ago on the annual emissions check- rejected for "tampering." CO and CO2 were well below standards but that didn't matter- the preheat tube was missing. So I went home and put the tube on-not the valve-and went back and passed the insp.
        For colder climates, I recommend leaving everything as original- just make sure thermo works. PH








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          me too! 200 1993

          posted by  Stanley Rockefeller on  Thu Sep 9 20:47 CST 2004
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          my highschool mechanic who was also a 240 nut recommended keeping the system intact and fully operational, especially since the climate up here in Canada gets pretty darn cold. So much so that you almost NEED to have the preheat hose and the thermostat working for you.

          If not, the SU carb will freez up on you causing hesitation, bucking, and hard starts...not to mention a dramatic increase in fuel consumption!








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            My daily driver has a functional Air-Box thermostat. 200 1993

            posted by  FitzFitzgerald on  Sat Sep 11 06:43 CST 2004
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            last visit: Wed Jun 25 23:15 CST 2014
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            my highschool mechanic who was also a 240 nut recommended keeping the system intact and fully operational, especially since the climate up here in Canada gets pretty darn cold. So much so that you almost NEED to have the preheat hose and the thermostat working for you.

            If not, the SU carb will freez up on you causing hesitation, bucking, and hard starts...not to mention a dramatic increase in fuel consumption!

            I agree, and on my '87 240 I do have a functional Air Box Thermostat. I also live in Michigan and it does get pretty chilly around her during the winter months. However, I have put longer shafts into failed thermostats on vehicles owned by local residents who spend their winters in Florida. They're lucky to see 50 degrees at any point during their year.

            God bless,
            Fitz Fitzgerald.
            --
            '87 Blue 240 Wagon, 246k miles.







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