My son came home with a 80/245 wagon perfect body but knocking bad the engine was shot. We have a 79/k jet and we put it in. We started the engine and yes it started to stumbling and bucking then the idle would start to rise up,after about 3 to 4 min the engine cut off,Then it wont start back hot. After it cold it starts back up.We have the volvo manuels and have gone through them,still I have no clue.We have changed the FPR/cold start injector/we have spark,thermal switch changed/ seals on the injector/spray the intake down with cleaner to check for leaks. What do we need to do now ????????
Thanks
Rodney

On my daughter's '82 KJet we ran into a no-hot start problem. Two wiring connectors were the culprit(s). First one is the connector on the starter solenoid--wiring insulation was shot & crumbling & some shorting was happening when hot, not when cold. Second one was more difficult to find--I was looking for the ingnition ballast resistor, which seems to have disappeared by '82. However, I did find a male/female spade connector pair on a blue wire if I remember correctly located on the passenger side of the engine compartment back near the firewall. Manipulating those connectors really freaked out the engine. Cause was corrosion--cleaned 'em out good with 400 sandpaper, reassembled with a dab of WD40 & no problems since.

Good luck & let us know what you finally find out the culprit is on yours.

The excact same thing happened to my 82. I cleaned that connector (firewall) and tightened it with a wire wrap. Also put some electrical grease on the spades.

Mario

I checked and have no power going into fuse #5 at all does this come off the main switch are where,
Rodney

The voltage that goes to fuse 5 comes from the fuel pump relay being operated to fuse #7. If you jumper 5&7 you bypass the relay and put voltage to the main pump and to the intank pump through fuse 5.


Mario

pumps wont run unless all of ignition system works....how does the wiring look?
I have an '80 with very similar problem, but it doesnt die - just bucks...Id really like to know the solution soon...K-Jet is a little tricky, but those pumps must be running and at the right pressures for all to be well.
let us know what happens-

The wiring is fine checked it out when I had the old engine pulled out. I made repairs to it the connecter on the fire wall looks great. One thing that I just noticed is that the FI Relay was warmer than I think it should be. I have the correct relays (Green) I looked on the FQA'S for no start when hot and it says to check for cracked soldier joints on FI Relay When the car is hot there is no start power to the main pump at least that is what my test light is telling me.I just can't believe that I have 3 bad FI Relay's even though they are used.
Rodney

Did you check the fuel pumps?

I tryed to check the fuel pumps meter and listening I found no power on the main and no sound. I changed out the FP Relay I have 3 of them I have spark when the Engine is hot.Is this a common problem with K jets when hot.
Rodney

It seems that one or both of the pumps are not working. With a small piece of wire connect the fuel pumps fuse with a fuse that will supply power - on the left side of the fuse rail. (in my '89 240 it's fuse 4 and 6, but it may be different in a '79) Anyway that will get both pumps working (unless they are broken) and you should be able to start the car. Then you will know if the pump(s) are functioning and if you have an electrical supply problem.

On a K-Jet the fuses are 5&7 that need to be jumpered to bypass the relay.

Mario