I know this is a worn out question but I've done alot of research and seem to get alot of conflicting information.
My 240 has become a money pit. The previous owner beat it up pretty badly.
I will definitely replace it with another Brick. My concerns are as follows:
1) I'm a student on a very limited budget regarding costly repairs.
2) I can do moderate work myself, but again parts cost is still a concern.
3) I'm looking for anything reliable in the $4000 - $7000 range.
4) I live in Arizona US (very HOT) and A/C and cooling are concerns.
5) Flash and glammor are at the bottom of my list, reliability is at the top.
Not sure what else I could write. I just need some experienced opinions. I will also be happy to research any links you could provide. I've already used the common ones, BrickBoard, Swedish Bricks, etc.
Thank you for any input,
Dan

$4000 - $7000 range will get you into an excellent car, I would go for
'93 - '95 940 N/A (non turbo) for max reliability and easy maintenance.

to answer your question - AVOID the obvious. look for well maintaned car
with maint records, for the money you are spending it should be really
clean inside & out. I suspect you could can find a low mileage
'91-'92 740 or '91-'95 940, they are all good. '94 / '95 940 is the
pinnacle of the breed with the most updates available. I would look on autotrader website and search a 300 mile radius. I would only go for 80k or
less car owned by a responsible individual. It is your hard earned money, right?

try "autotrader.com"
--
Kevin P Walsh, Casper WY. '91 945 SE turbo 165,000 miles / paid for

Just one addition to the good words about 940's. I have two. Recently purchased one with high mileage (150,000). However, I trusted the info I was given, namely that it was virtually all highway miles. I paid top dollar for the car, whose body becuase it had been garaged looked almost like new and I am pleased with it.

BO

I would agree on one point that the 960 is more complex than the 940SE as I own both. I disagree on cost of the 940SE Sedan and wagon as I own both of those. The only parts I have had to change are those that you would change in any other700 or 940. I like my 940SEs as it is as close as I can get to the 960 without having to deal with all the problems of the engine.

I like my 960 as it was a great road car. The issues I had with mine maybe were unique but never the less I got soured on the engine with nagging problems that cost me several thousand to fix and in the end the premature snapping of the timing belt final did it for me. The 960 will be a parts car for my 940SE.

What does SE designate in the 940 series. Are those the letters for Turbo

BO

What does SE designate in the 940 series. Are those the letters for Turbo

BO

It's the car that was sold as the 960 turbo in other markets.

The VIN will decode to a 960 with a B230FT and AW71 transmission. It's essentially an 88-90 760 turbo.

--
alex

'89 765T, 177,8xx mi

The SE is special edition 1991 only, yes it is a turbo , but also is the only 940 to have IRS and other goodies. Bascically Volvo realized the 960 wasn't ready for North American market so the SE designation came about. The car is basically the same as a 92 960 except for the engine and transmission(turbo plus the AW71 transmission). The 940SE wagon doesn't have an IRS but uses a solid axle like the other RWD wagons otherwise the rest of the car is the same as the sedan.
Volvo built a 940 turbo in 91 that was not a SE. I am not aware that Volvo ever produced a 940SE for North America that wasn't a turbo, but I wouldn't be surprised if Volvo did.

I disagree on cost of the 940SE Sedan and wagon as I own both of those.

The Nivomats will wear out. They're expensive for sedan and wagon, yes. However with the sedans you can replace them with standard shocks and springs. Bilsteins run about half the cost of the Nivos, and used springs will probably work okay. With the sedan, you're stuck with IPD's conversion kit (about $400) or the Nivos for the same (or more).

Also anything related to the rear axle is different. Rear calipers, meaning rear brake pads.. parking brake cable.

--
alex

this is beating a dead horse,but the 960 IS NOT the only brick that has it's faults.maybe i've been fortunate with the 2 i own.i have had to replace timing belts,do oil changes,and even replace tires.let's not forget wiper blades that wear out.
there are horror stories on any neglected brand you may choose.
i enjoy my 960 and if i have to spend a few extra bucks on the dreaded self destructing engine,i'll find another 960 to take it's place.
i jumped from the 240's,straight into the 960 realm and never looked back.
dont let a few negative comments keep you from considering a truly pleasant automobile.
sorry for the rant,but i beleive it is still a volvo,right?
--
92-965-204k, 94-965-211k, 92-944t-200k, 83-242dl,totaled(8/04), 84-242GLT,totaled(2/03),83-245GLT,retired(03)

I live on a tight buget and am very pleased with the 92 965 I purchased 2 years ago for $4000. Apart from being my first volvo, I have done little to maitain it. 15K later I replaced the the whole cooling system a month ago, just to be on the safe side ($300) The only thing that whent bad was the ac compressor and my hood cable broke. (also converted ac to r134 , cooles very well in S. california) I use only synthetic and 91 octane, which seems high but makes it very predictable)I have calculated my anual maintainace has been $1000
Sure beats any car payment.

I would suggest you might want to avoid the 960 altogether and consider only a 940 type. While I don't have experience with the 940, I can attest to the complexity and costs of maintenance on the 960. There is a laundry list of 960 maintenance items that you can reasonably expect to have to deal with at some point, if you drive one long enough. Common repairs include the PNP switch, leaking fuel rails, leaking fuel filler tubes, cracks in the circuit boards, radiator replacement, no-start from sticking valves, and the list goes on... Each of these repairs can run into the hundreds of $$$. Plus, the additional costs of using synthetic oil instead of the dino stuff.

Also, routine maintenance can be expensive, if you can't do it yourself. It is critical to replace the timing belt at the recommended interval. Not cheap at the dealer.

It's a great car, but not for someone on a limited budget. Having read this board for some time, I have the impression that the 940 engine is as rock solid as the 240s were, and not nearly as complex as the 960 engine. Also, transmission failures seem to be a rare thing, except for the electronics.

If you do consider the 960, beware of the known problems with engine block porosity that seemed to plague some of the early ('92, maybe '93) models.

Also, if A/C is a concern, watch out for pre '94 cars that may still have the R12 refrigerant. It probably will have to be converted at some point. Lots of $$$. I would look for something that already has been converted or that came from the factory with the R134a.

You might also consider something in the 740 series.

Good luck, and let us know what you decide.

Robert

Avoid ALL 960/90 series (good cars, but expensive to maintain). The 1991 940 SE is much more complex with electronic climate control, Nivomats shocks,etc. and is accordingly more expensive to maintain. All other 940 cars are a dream to own. The best of the lot are 94-95's with the FD engine, oil piston cooling, and 100k timing belts.

The 1991 940 SE is much more complex with electronic climate control, Nivomats shocks,etc.

And that's about it really. All the stuff that's more complicated (climate control, seats) is easy enough to live without or work around. Indeed maybe I'd stay away from a 940 SE sedan, but the wagon would be just fine with me. It's no 240, but then again, what is?

I do prefer the older 700 style relay board behind the ashtray, easier access. Actually the old style board affords you the ability to use cheaper relays as well. The late model 760s, 940SE, and 960s used different relays all together. A pain to find spares for.

The Nivos are going away next week, the 'steins set me back about $200 (for the rears), and I'm going to grab the springs on a half-off day.

The much vaunted 100k timing belt won't save you much money, as the belt itself is roughly 2x the cost of the 50k belt.

All in all, I'd say go for a late model 240.. maybe an 88. Parts are much cheaper for the 240s. I know I miss my 240s.

--
alex

'89 765T, 177,4xx mi