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I just finished rolling down the street, busted the car i think... I was accelerating hard, probably around 3-3.5k rpms, and all of a sudden the engine starts clacking and the engine loses a cylinder... It sounds like a valve broke or something. I'm going to take off the valve cover in a bit.
Thoughts and ideas please. CRAP!! AND THE SU's HAVE ARRIVED!!! damnit. Peace guys. :-\
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (256k, 74 b20, m40, iPd bars, other misc... =D) waits for its next outing...
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posted by
someone claiming to be patrickofmontreal
on
Thu Sep 2 06:25 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Do not underestimate how tough these engines are. if your broke, pull the head, have a look, fix the valve if that,s all it is, using some used bits from your other head. Slap that head back on, I have even reused a head gasket when in need, some of the B18/B20 engines I have pulled apart have had a very nice copper and cardboard(?) gasket that did not stick to the head or block during dismantling and was easy to re-use. to all the naysayers on this I know this is not recommended but it has worked for me, besides go to mexico and watch some mechanics there, you would be amazed. Anyhow, my engine before I rebuilt it was still pulling nicely, when I opened it up there were a few nicks etc on the cyl walls, and the valaves had definatly seen better days. One of the things i love about my 120 is that it is not a precision machine, and therin lies it's strength.
Patrick of Mtl '68 220, '83 245, '92 VW Eurovan (I need it for work)
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Yea, man! I'm with you... I've re-used head gaskets many, many times..not to mention manifold gaskets, carburettor gaskets, oil pan, exhaust, anything in the transmission, rear end cover...etc. Of course, I wouldn't recommend it to others, but I've never had a problem doing so myself.
Living a long 35+ miles from the nearest parts store with no phone and oft times no money, a fella learns to get by with what he's got...
-Matt
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-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
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I found the probable cause... I didn't see anything in the cylinder, and couldn't fish anything out. About an hour later, while trying to figure out what possibly could have gone through the engine, I remembered that last time we messed around with the Weber, the tiny screws that hold the choke plates in, were stripped... I just went and looked, and sure enough, one of the little screws was missing. the car still clicks and clacks like a really bad/misadjusted valve though, and it scares me. What do you think?
Peace,
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (256k, 74 b20, m40, iPd bars, other misc... =D) waits for its next outing...
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You should change your user name to "car killa" or something.
My old 1800E injested a nut and bent a valve and gave the same symptoms you describe. If your spark plug is damaged something has gone through there. Cross your fingers you can get by with just a new valve and associated parts. If a magnet didn't retrieve anything it could be that the screw is non-ferrous and is still in there, or that it's gone and the noise you hear is piston-valve contact. If the latter you are just digging yourself into a deeper hole by still driving it. Replacing a valve is an easy afternoon's job, but replacing a holed piston is a whole other ball of wax.
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Justin 66 122E, 71 145S
Read vclassics tech!
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Ouch. That little nut probably got sucked in, then smashed around until it was pulverised enough to sneak out the exhaust. How's the compression on that cylinder?
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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I took off the valve cover and couldn't see anything wrong... I looked inside the springs to see if any of the valves weren't in contact with the top of the spring or rockers or whatever and everything seemed fine. I reinstalled the valve cover and turned the engine on again:
-The knocking/clacking was still there
-there was another, LOUD clanging, sounded like something was tapping on the exhaust manifold, so i went over there to look at it, and when i started looking at the manifold, the loud noise went away...
-I started taking off the spark plug wires, started with the second one, because i noticed that one of the valves had a little play in it(well, as if the valve had to be tightened), and that made the car almost die. So, i figured that cylinder was good, and i went to the third cylinder wire. Took it off, and the car didn't really change, i put it back on, and noticed that there was a very slight improvement on how it was running, very slight though, almost nothing...
Then i turned it off again, because it sounds like a valve head is hitting the top of a piston or something, and i didn't like that thought so i shut it off...
My dilemma sounds very much like this one...
More ideas?
EDIT: Ps. I forgot to mention that on one of my 95mph excursions on the way up to portland on saturday, my car started making a knocking sound, like a really bad valve ticking noise for a little while(30 seconds?) and then stopped and i haven't noticed anything until today, and i have been driving it all around since then... Might this have anything to do with it???
--
Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (256k, 74 b20, m40, iPd bars, other misc... =D) waits for its next outing...
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You probably got a bent valve that's sticking in the guide, letting the piston pound it back. 95'll do that, hotshot. Maybe you'll get by with a new valve, guide, head gasket, manifold gasket, and exhaust gasket.
--
'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'
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a registered 112 didn't do it... (almost two years ago...) =D But would that 95 have caused it, and then the noise gone away after about 30 seconds(after i did the second 95 mph stint). And then i've been driving it around the rest of the weekend and no noises have been present until this morning...?
Anyway, I took out the spark plugs, and sure enough, the third one has been bent. The gap is very small and the tip is off center. I looked through the plug hole at the piston, and it is dented up a bit...
My friend has a couple b20s at his disposal, shall i just drop one of them in? Or shall I try to do as you suggest Uniberp and take off the head and do that stuff to it... I'm not sure, but just swapping engines may possibly be cheaper and easier. And then i'd have this engine to mess around with,(take apart and dissect and get rebuilt nicely), but that wouldn't be until i had some major time on my hands(not until next summer) and some money and a place to play with it...
More ideas? Thanks guys!
--
Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (256k, 74 b20, m40, iPd bars, other misc... =D) waits for its next outing...
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You can't really drive it now, so ... It's easier to take the head off than remove the engineand you can do that in a couple hours. If you don't see cylinder wall damage (I suspect you won't, since there are seem to be no busted off parts rattling around inside) you might get away with some head rework.
However, you don't want to put a new head on an old engine. That causes lots of blowby and makes you burn oil.
Maybe you can find an old head somewhere. Keep your pushrods if you got custom lifters.
The valvetrain is designed that the valves rotate in their guides while running. Only a slight bend will make it stick, and a very loose guide might let it work loose again.
Keep it cheap it. Buena suerte, amigo.
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'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'
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It's still clicking like there's something in the cylinder... I stuck a little magnet on a stick thingy into the cylinder and couldn't fish anything out. It may have been a nut or bolt or something that was flying around in there. How it may have gotten in there i have no clue, and i don't know where it is now. But I did hear earlier today that something was clanking really loudly that souned like it was in the exhaust system, but i can't find anything rattling around in there now.
- There is a '75 engine i can get for 200, but i'd need to find someone and some place to swap it in... And some way to move it. Or, there's another option, which would be to pick up an 82 240 DL that is being offered by someone in my local Volvo club nearby for $250... That may need to go through DEQ and get tags.
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (256k, 74 b20, m40, iPd bars, other misc... =D) waits for its next outing...
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Try a 'shade tree' compression test. Pull the coil wire, and crank it over for a little bit. Does the starter labor over each compression, or does it have a markeldy easier time over a cylinder? If the compression is still good it's a good sign. Also pull the plugs and see if something is funny with any one of them.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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Check for a dislodged distributor cap.
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'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'
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posted by
someone claiming to be cdu
on
Wed Sep 1 06:58 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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My second volvo, the first one I reall liked, was a 68 144 with the
original B18 motor. It was a honey of a car, even if it was more than
a little smokey. I drove the bejezus out of it. Living in a distant
suburb of Los Angeles, it wasn't hard for me to drive it 200 miles a
day. It did so without complaint.
Well, okay -- the point of my story -- I was coming home from some
distant place and the car started driving super-crappy. I coaxed it
the rest of the way home, and when I got it running in the morning, it
ran like my 164 (by this time the volvos had multiplied) when my 164
broke the timing gear. No problem, I though, I'll put in a napa alloy
gear and be done with it. I got the timing cover off, and darn it, the
gear was intact.
It turned out that 2 valve springs were broken, on different
cylinders. I think the car had sat in one place for several years
prior to my buying it (there were sun-bleaching patterns in the seat
belts indicating the same thing) and the valves that were compressed
for years were stressed and my driving it put them over the edge.
So, good thought about the valves...
chris
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Could be a valve issue, but if you lost compression like that, you'd have a dead cylinder at all rpms.
I'd be looking into electrical first (as always)... check for proper points gap, distributor shaft wobble... that the advance is proper.
Hope its not serious!
-Matt
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-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
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