Problems continue from last week on car. Picked up car from mechanic- he put in a used EZK ignition system ECU. Drove home without any problems went out yesterday am to start and although it turned over it would not catch..it turned over but wouldn't start. Spent 120.00 on tuneup with 1st mechanic and 190.00 on used ecu with 2nd..now any suggestions before I have it towed back to the 2nd mechanic to try and get this car going...feeling very frustrated. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!

Having the same things happen in pretty much the same order on my '89 245 over the past two yrs, I can confidently say that ALL of the engine management components needed replacing, although the only ones that actually disabled the car were the fuel pump relay (take it out as mentioned below an whack it, then try) and the ECU. If you haven't replaced the fuel pump relay, I would just go and get one without any further investigation, and at $25 a cheap bit of confidence.
After replacing those two items,I had crank sensor go but not completely, still driveable; O2 sensor; AMM weak response, replaced; coolant temp sensor weak response, replaced, and the car runs great now at 265k miles.
Unfortunately these engine management components are old and at 15 yrs will not last much longer regardless of miles. The power ign module and EZK are still going, and not usually subject to the same degradation as the other engine management components, pretty rare that these need replacing.
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'89 245 Sportwagon, '04 V70 2.5T Sportwagon

So, refresh us, why is it not the fuel relay, crank sensor, 25 amp fuse or the notorious fuel system ECU? Why an ICU of all things? I have never heard of an ICU request to buy or report of failure in a late 240. Even the lowly power stage is a more likely culprit.

Initial problem was that I would be driving along and car would just die..sometimes I would just wait and then it would start again..Mech #1 replaced air mass..problem continued on and off Mech #2 messed around with it and kept it for 5 months until I had had enough and I brought it home and let it sit again for another 3 months. So before letting my son take in to Chicago on a new move I took it Mech#3 for a tuneup. I bought a new battery installed it myself (a first) and took it to #3 10 days ago. He tuned it up said everything was fine.. I picked up..and the next day they couldn't get it to start. They towed it to Mech#4 and they eliminated everything until they found that it was the ecu. Replaced it with a used one and I drove it home. Next day it would turn over but not start/catch. So that is my sad tale and I am ready to call the tow. By the way I bought this with 100,000 and drove it for another 8 years without any problem until last year. Part of the problem is that I had mechanics who don't know anything about VOLVOs until this last one (Ihope).. but I have learned the hard way I guess..So advise me if you can..it is all appreciated at this point. Thanks again... T

I'm leaning toward an intermittent Fuel pump relay.

Or Fuel pump that's on it's way out but usually they wont die while you are driving.

There's plenty of details on how to take it out from behind the Glove Box and resolder the connections.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

OK, now I remember the post a little better. It is hard to follow them without a recap. Have a quick look at the timing belt under the top of the cover, in case it just went. Do we know for sure it has spark, or for sure it has fuel? I would clean the 25 amp fuse, swap or at least smack the relay, check the fuel pump wires and ground, then power up the fuel pump by hot wiring. I would swap the power stage, the ECU, the crank sensor but just unplug the AMM. Do you know af any working 89-93 (LH 2.4) 240s that you can swap from? The time and dollars are exceeding what this should take buy a long long shot and none of this is stuff you can't do if you have some spare parts and a screwdriver.

Thanks for the suggestions. I bought a book today about this car so do you mean tap the fuel pump relay? I don't want to do too much as I know nothing about repair. Is there any thing that I could do with the fuel pump fuse that might help? Thanks

You can whack it with a screwdriver handle but that applies to a no-start and will be difficult during a drive. The 25 amp fuse (by the battery) needs to be clean and corrosion free at its contacts, again, usually a no-start cause. The fuse rarely burns out but often looses contact with the holder.