|
|
|
My 12 volt PV occasionally goes completely dead; meaning electrical system completely shuts down; no lights,no radio,etc. If the car is running at the time the motor stalls as well. Usually, all systems return within a few minutes,and it's as if nothing had happened.So far I have been lucky in that I have not been on a freeway or other dangerous place when the vehicle stalls. What might be doing this, and what are the reasionable steps to take in diagnosing this
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank You for all of the help that I received with this problem. I cleaned the system as suggested and additionally found a loose connection to the amp meter. As the problem was intermittent I can't be sure if it has been addressed, but so far, so good.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank you to the folks who responded to my posting with good tips.I appreciate your assistance. Also thanks to Brickboard.
|
|
-
|
|
Let us know what works.
--
I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
|
|
-
|
|
|
With my experience over the years it is ok to run generator with battery disconnected but not alternater. There is a big risk of frying the rectifier. As the guys say it is most likely corrosion at starter post. Regards Jack McIntyre.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I had an identical problem some years ago, and it turned out that the battey was apparently shorting out via some sort of debris in the electrolyte. It would be triggered by taking a quick turn or stopping shortly, which would agitate the battery and cause the entire electrical system to die (there was an ozone smell too, if I remember right) and you couldn't even jump star it. If you let it sit awhile, all returned to normal. I paid to have an alternator rebuilt, and it died on the way out of the mechanic's. I finally figured it out myself and replacing the battery did the trick. Maybe that's what you have...
Vic
|
|
-
|
|
|
A friend of mine once had a similar problem. Battery occasionally went completely flat. Took it out of the car, connected it to a battery charger and lett it sit overnight. If you would measure the voltage on the battery terminals it would read 12 V. no prob. Then, if you would shake the battery and measure again, it would only be 2 V. or so. A new battery obviously cured the problem.
--
P131, '65, B20B+M47. P131, '69, B20E+AW71L+LSD. (www.tinustechniek.tk)
|
|
-
|
|
I've never had a battery so bad as to do that... but yea, I could picture it. Good point...
-Matt
--
-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
|
|
-
|
|
|
Duette;
This is a highly unusual fault condition, as when the engine is running, there are two power sources in the vehicle...the charging system, and the battery...and for both of them to fail at the same time, and then return to normal is damned near impossible! Its more likely that a common failure such as an intermittent connection is taking them both offline, but I have trouble imagining just what this might be *...so I will make some general recommendations:
1. As a preventitive, after disconnecting battery, disconnect, clean, prepare with anti-corrosive zinc compound, and reconnect all the usual suspects like battery, fat starter stud, chassis/engine strap, generator/regulator, ignition switch, fuseblock...
2. If symptoms persist, temporarilly mount a voltmeter, and connect across the battery (RIGHT TO THE POSTS **) such that you can glance at the meter to see what the actual battery voltage is...I expect it should show 12V...try the lights again...if they don't work, this suggest a disconnect and helps narrow the failure considerably. Report back with symptoms and what you find. ** disconnect vmeter when parked to prevent discharging bat.
* I did have a similar problem years ago when the contact block in the solenoid failed (apparently became disconnected from its mechanism), fell between the battery connection and the housing...this brought down the whole electrical system with its tremendous load (not by disconnection)...so much current flowed that the battery cable got hot, and even oily grung on the chassis to engine ground strap started burning up, the temp needle took of because the metal capillary tube even flowed its share of current...but a quick "Chinese Fire Drill" to disconnect the battery saved the Sow Weasel from burning up... Exciting!...
Good Hunting
I'm Ron Kwas, and I hope John Mc. approves of this message too...I sure as hell stand behind it!!
|
|
-
|
|
|
"1. As a preventitive, after disconnecting battery, disconnect, clean, prepare with anti-corrosive zinc compound, and
reconnect all the usual suspects like battery, fat starter stud, chassis/engine strap, generator/regulator, ignition switch,
fuseblock... "
Thats about what I was thinking when I diagnosed my similar problem... But, since the lights ain't fused, nor are they on the ignition switch (unless someone did some creative wiring), It really can't be the fuse block or ignition switch.
In my case, the starter *always* worked, which sorta ruled out the ground straps. I was not the wire from the battery to the starter...rather, the other wires on the same post that provide juice to everything *except* the starter... only one place that can cause that, and its a bad connection on the fat lug on the starter solenoid.
Or a very serious short somewhere else, but that would cause some serious electrical smoke if it went on for more than a split second.
-Matt
I approve this message, even if I may well not have a clue as to what I'm talking about.
--
-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
|
|
-
|
|
|
Matt;
You're absolutely correct, but a little extra PM never hurt anyone...and after I posted, and thought about it some more, I came up with the same thing: It's likely an intermittent connection (loose nut?) at the fat starter bolt!
...and my compliments, I would say you have a pretty darn good clue!
Cheers
|
|
-
|
|
|
I agree, the big starter solenoid terminal is the only common point in the whole electrical system where the primary (most of the wiring, starter, lights, radio, etc.) and secondary electrical systems (ignition system... The one that will bite ya).
Problem has to be there.
OBTW... that intermittent contact can kill your alternator (if fitted). Connecting and disconnecting the output while running can burn out diodes. Your intermittent contact is the functional equivalent of connecting and disconnecting the battery + terminal.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Sounds alarmingly like what my 122 wagon was doing recently, though mine would cut out only for a split second. My cure...well, I started with removing and cleaning the battery to ground connection at the chassis. Then I re-did all the stacked, riveted connections in the fusebox (or you can get one from Ron Kwas).
THe final cure though turned out to be a bad connection at the big post on the starter... since you lose your lights (which are not fused), its gotta be near the main battery connections....
Also check for corrosion in the cables themselves, but my guess is if you remove, clean, and re-attach all them wires at the starter post, your troubles will go away. But clean that ground lead too.
-Matt
--
-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
|
|
-
|
|
|
My #1 suspect would be the terminals on the battery. Remove, clean, retighten. For *everything* to go out like that the fault has to be pretty far up the 'food chain'.
Although now that I think about it, although it is hard on everything else you can typically unhook a battery on a running car and it will continue to work because the generator or alternator can supply the current? Perhaps its a connection on the starter or generator/alternator.
If you don't have a PV wiring diagram to refer to, Ron Kwas has one on his Swem site: http://www.intelab.com/swem/544%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg
--
I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
|
|
|
|
|
