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Forget the tank, it isn't anything in or having to do with the tank. First off the known in tank hose failure only happens with a low tank, and even then you would get some sputtering and identifiable problems first before the engine stalled. Then theres the fact that you had other problems that could never be caused by the pre-pump, pre-pump hose, or sender assembly. You could drive 1000 miles with a dead pre-pump, I drove 1200 miles IN A DAY about a month ago with a dead pre-pump.
The problem is likely either the ignition system or the main fuel pump. To rule out the pump jump the sockets of the fuel pump relay (you'll need two male connectors and a piece of 14 gauge wire)... I think its the front left socket and middle right socket (there are six sockets for the FP Relay). If the pump comes on (you'll hear it beneath you) it works, so move on (don't run it a long time, just enough to confirm its dead or alive).
Now I think its the ignition system, in part because of the heat relationship; ignition problems are specifically more frequent in high heat and high humidity (electronics). Assuming it is (ignition turns off pumps at failure) start with hall sensor/distributor ('89 is the last year of the dist + hall sensor), move onto the ICU (black thing on drivers side engine compartment fender with parallel cable looking connector), and then the coil itself.
LIKELY its the Hall Sensor, a sensor riveted into the distributor housing that senses the cap as it goes around and reports to the ECU. Its a known failure point, and your probably about due for a replacement assuming its original. More info is available in the FAQ, but there are two options; replace the whole distributor or replace the hall sensor in the dist. The first is expesnive ($175 after you send in yours for the core fee) but VERY easy and quick (it took me about 10-15 minutes), while the latter involves totally disassembling the dist and drilling out the sensor.
My recommendation is that you suck it up and buy a new dist. if you need one. You could rebuild yours, but like I said it involves drilling and rivets, total disassembly, and even then you're only saving about $50 (if that) since the parts to do it (cap, rotor, seals, hall sensor) will cost you $100-$120.
Some quick notes about the rebuilt distributor. You'll need to buy the rubber o-rings (the two for the shaft, not the inner one) at the same time since it doesn't come with them. Before you pull the existing on do two things; first, mark the position of the distributor on the head (use the screw bracket on the old distributor and a pen) since the postition of the dist is the timing component, and second, make a note about the direction the rotor is in on the existing one. I can't remember if its possible but you COULD conceivably (from what I remember) put the rotor in 180 degrees backwards.
good luck,
rt
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